Exhaust pipe alignment

bobpo1

bobpo1

Senior Member
I have to re-align the exhaust pipe to the exh. manifold. I have heard this can be done while still connected to the back but by disconnecting the pipe from the manifold.

How far do I need to drop the pipe and do I need to disconnect the rear clamp to the frame?

How do you know when it is in alignment?

Thanks in advance
 
The rear clamp at the frame should allow this.
I use a floor jack under the bend in the front of the muffler assembly to position the flange on the exhaust manifold and then tap the clamp with a small ball peen hammer as the clamp is tightened.
 
EASY, BoPo,
Drop the pipe from the manifold, poke a long piece of pipe into it & bend it until the flange fits properly to the manifold.
Bill W.
 
I undo the rear clamp completely , suspend the pipe loosely in that area with a piece of string, then fit the pipe to the manifold , and then fit the rear clamp- not tight- loosely to allow for expansion etc. Never resorted to re-bending the pipe though sometimes a bit of muscle is needed to fit the rear clamp.
 
Model A exhaust system was not a very sophisticated design & is a PAIN in the neck at times & sometimes falls off. A regular flange would have been better & some rubber mounting.
Bill W.
 
I use Aries mufflers, and they fit correctly, with a proper sized flange. I dont like the original rear hanger, so made a bracket that bolts to the frame in the same hole as original, but uses a universal rubber hanger that attaches at the outlet of the muffler. No more squeeking or rattling.
 
Had a devil of a time with my brand new stainless Aries. Spent 6 months restoring a ton of stuff including motor mounts ( as per original). heating the pip did nothing. Finally took it to a friends muffler shop and had him bend it forward 4 degrees in his tubing bender. Then! everything bolted up perfecto. That was 12 years ago. For all I know the vendor I purchased from may have knowingly sold me second quality goods.
 
Bobpo1,

I replaced my manifold this past spring and found that the exhaust pipe had obviously been adjusted (bent) to fit the drooping old manifold.

It required that I guess at the proper new angle and I took the exhaust out and clamped in my workmate bench and heated an area around the pipe with my acetylene torch about 8" or so below and using a crowbar inside the pipe as leverage, rebent the pipe to align properly with the new manifold. It took several tries but I was not able to bend it cold. I did get it to fit properly but had to make an extension to the frame clam to move the pipe inward toward the center of the car about an inch to clear the suspension in the back where the pipe goes up and over.

Good luck,
JackD
 
Well after 5 years of smelling exhaust fumes and listening to engine noise, I finally dropped the exhaust system. I suspended the rear of the pipe with some wire so I could move it back and forth and forward and back as needed. No matter how much I tried, it would not line up well. SO, I ground out the inner surfaces of the cast iron clamps almost 1/16 inch and installed a new gasket. I had the floor jack under the muffler and raised it into place. I tightened the clamps and now it fits great. I also had to made a small adapter for the hanger for the rear of the pipe.

Now (after 5 years) it is very quiet and Momma will ride in it (and pay for the gas)........
 
Here's one way, as described in one of the Model A Parts catalogs. I added some extra clarification words.

Loosen the tail pipe clamp.
Using a floor jack, place the jack just behind the front bend in the pipe
Raise the pipe slowly until it contacts the exhaust manifold well. (Wiggle to seat)
With the jack still in place, assemble and tighten the clamps; two bolts and nuts
Remove jack
Tighten the tail pipe clamp.

Sounds like it would work. Will try this when that time comes.

Larry
 
Larry Jenkins said:
Here's one way, as described in one of the Model A Parts catalogs. I added some extra clarification words.

Loosen the tail pipe clamp.
Using a floor jack, place the jack just behind the front bend in the pipe
Raise the pipe slowly until it contacts the exhaust manifold well. (Wiggle to seat)
With the jack still in place, assemble and tighten the clamps; two bolts and nuts
Remove jack
Tighten the tail pipe clamp.

Sounds like it would work. Will try this when that time comes.

Larry
Click to expand...

That's how I do it.
Remember this is America, if it doesn't fit...force it...as per Bill's pipe method...works every time.
One last note to add, after a test drive let her cool down and re-check the clamp tightness
 
See #2 above. The clamp at the frame is designed to loosely hold the exhaust pipe so it can allow the pipe to expand as it heats up. Never clamp tightly to the exhaust pipe.
Aries sells a clamp with heat resistent padding that allows for this necessary movement.
Also, I have seen the clamp at the manifold and the muffler flange incorrectly installed with one side 180 degrees(flipped over). The clamp narrow sides go on the exhaust pipe side - both halves.
There are other tricks to get a good fit, but I won't share.
 
Last edited:
Brentwood Bob said:
See #2 above. The clamp at the frame is designed to loosely hold the exhaust pipe so it can allow the pipe to expand as it heats up. Never clamp tightly to the exhaust pipe.
Aries sells a clamp with heat resistent padding that allows for this necessary movement.
Also, I have seen the clamp at the manifold and the muffler flange incorrectly installed with one side 180 degrees(flipped over). The clamp narrow sides go on the exhaust pipe side - both halves.
There are other tricks to get a good fit, but I won't share.
Click to expand...

?:confused:
 
There are other tricks to get a good fit, but I won't share."

I wonder too, Tom..
Maybe he will tell us why.. If it's a joke, it's a very bad one. Isn't this what the Barn is all about?

Larry
 
I know this is a little off topic but the Model A parts supplier over here sells clamps where the bolts don't go right through the clamp. One side of the clamp is modified so that there is more "meat" in the lugs which is drilled and tapped. The bolts are shorter and screw into the rear (motor side) of the clamp with no nuts used at all. I'm pretty sure they are made locally, maybe NZ. Unless you are VERY careful fitting the original clamps, you can't use the clutch.:eek:
 
We avoid that problem by driving on the other side of the road.
The bolts use brass nuts which are supposed to stay under tension.
One of the other tricks.
Bob
 
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