Are the bolt holes that bolt the intake to the exhaust manifold suppose to go all the way through to the inside of the manifold or is that suppose to be a wall that separates the bolts from the exhaust from the interior port? I drilled broken off bolts out of the exhaust and the drill went all the way through to the interior port and now the bolts ends can be see through the exhaust port. I would think the exhaust would eat up the bolts.
exhaust manifold
- Thread starter Shoat
- Start date
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
The bolt holes don't go all of the way through the exhaust manifold. They sometimes get drilled all the way through in an attempt to remove a broken off bolt. If too long of bolt is used it can break the bottom out of the bolt holes.
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Steve has a very wise suggestion for obtaining a new set:
a. Check with vendor to insure IN & EX are made by same manufacturer to insure a perfect fit against block.
b. Get stainless steel bolts to bolt IN to EX manifold & install SS bolts with Permatex Anti-seize compound or similar U. S. A. brand.
c. Get manifold rings that Ford prudently designed to keep the highly heated rear of the manifold from usual sagging with the bouncing weight of the muffler & exhaust at the rear of the manifold.
d. Get copper manifold gaskets which seal better for much longer & will not rust like steel ones.
e. Place Permatex anti-seize on manifold studs & nuts & torque nuts incrementally on new thick manifold washers evenly to about 30 foot pounds.
f. To avoid even the slightess IN/EX manifold warpage, never remove manifold nuts with uneven torque while manifold is still hot or warm.
g. Tight fitting sealed manifolds are as important as properly rebuilt & tuned carburetors for top performance & sealing out added air & maintaining proper fuel/air mixture.
a. Check with vendor to insure IN & EX are made by same manufacturer to insure a perfect fit against block.
b. Get stainless steel bolts to bolt IN to EX manifold & install SS bolts with Permatex Anti-seize compound or similar U. S. A. brand.
c. Get manifold rings that Ford prudently designed to keep the highly heated rear of the manifold from usual sagging with the bouncing weight of the muffler & exhaust at the rear of the manifold.
d. Get copper manifold gaskets which seal better for much longer & will not rust like steel ones.
e. Place Permatex anti-seize on manifold studs & nuts & torque nuts incrementally on new thick manifold washers evenly to about 30 foot pounds.
f. To avoid even the slightess IN/EX manifold warpage, never remove manifold nuts with uneven torque while manifold is still hot or warm.
g. Tight fitting sealed manifolds are as important as properly rebuilt & tuned carburetors for top performance & sealing out added air & maintaining proper fuel/air mixture.