Exhaust manifold gasket question

G'Morning Gents,

Purdy Swoft said:
I've never seen a manifold gasket with built in glands.
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Purdy, I do have a set with the glands built in. It's copper on both sides with a gasket material (asbestos?) in the middle.

Steve Plucker said:
In other words, both the block and the manifold have to have the counterbored ports machined (counterbored) within both to work, not just one or the other.

Pluck
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Pluck, The gasket with the glands has the glands protruding from one side only. That's why I was asking which way it pointed. Or which way do you think it should go?
 
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Y_Block, I'm not disputing your word. I just haven't seen one yet. Snyders or Brattons, that I mostly deal with and use for a quick referance doesn't list them in the catalogs that I have. I no longer use gland rings as they have cost me a couple of old manifolds that I tried to get by with.
 
Purdy, I didn't take it as disputing my word. Sorry you took my response that way. I'm here to learn from you guys.

I was just saying I had one but I don't know which way it goes on. :eek::eek: I think I got it at MAC's "Copper clad, asbestos-like with glands built in" ~$11.00.
 
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Y-Blockhead said:
G'Morning Gents,



Purdy, I do have a set with the glands built in. It's copper on both sides with a gasket material (asbestos?) in the middle.



Pluck, The gasket with the glands has the glands protruding from one side only. That's why I was asking which way it pointed. Or which way do you think it should go?
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Put the gland side of the gasket with the block if the block has the counterbores...If the block does not have the counterbores and the manifold does, put it that way...If neither block or manifold has the counterbores, then you are out of luck.

Pluck
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Y_Block, I'm not disputing your word. I just haven't seen one yet. Snyders or Brattons, that I mostly deal with and use for a quick referance doesn't list them in the catalogs that I have. I no longer use gland rings as they have cost me a couple of old manifolds that I tried to get by with.
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I am with you on that one Purdy 100%!

Pluck
 
Mitch//pa said:
i always use the 2 piece copper, new concave washers, studs, and brass nuts
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Great discussion about exhaust manifold gaskets! As Rummy would say, that was the "unknown unknown", at least to me!

But now I have a couple more questions:

(1) What is the purpose of the domed (or as Mitch says, "concave" washers, AND which side faces toward the engine... the concave side or the convex side? Why?

(2) What is the proper torque for the nuts? The Book of Les is silent on this question (at least I didn't find it there)

(3) Why brass nuts? Someone told me recently he likes to use steel head nuts with a little anti-seize on each. My personal experience is that the brass nuts are easily stripped.

(4) What's the consensus on the proper gasket sealant to use for this application?

Thanks!
 
29er said:
Great discussion about exhaust manifold gaskets! As Rummy would say, that was the "unknown unknown", at least to me!

But now I have a couple more questions:

(1) What is the purpose of the domed (or as Mitch says, "concave" washers, AND which side faces toward the engine... the concave side or the convex side? Why?

(2) What is the proper torque for the nuts? The Book of Les is silent on this question (at least I didn't find it there)

(3) Why brass nuts? Someone told me recently he likes to use steel head nuts with a little anti-seize on each. My personal experience is that the brass nuts are easily stripped.

(4) What's the consensus on the proper gasket sealant to use for this application?

Thanks!
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howdy 29er,

1. the concave, convex, domed, washers acts as a lock washer for the nut when tightened down onto the manifold ears. look at it like a dish as the side of the dish you would eat on faces the engine. i am not getting invovled in saying dish up or dish down been there done that lol.

2. i use common sense on the torque by feel and work from center out evenly on both sides. then go over again after a hot and cold cycle.

3. i like the brass nuts as they dont seize up to the stud after time, they also look great and i never stripped one out so i am not sure where that info came from.

4. i always install my manifold gaskets dry and use the copper gasket sets
 
Just to add to mitch excellent info, I wouldn't ever add anti-seize to manifold or head nuts, it will only make them easier to strip when tightening. I would always add anti-seize compound to the coarse threads of the manifold or head studs where they enter the block and only bottom them with no excessive tightening of the studs. I use common sense on tightening the manifold nuts just as Mitch says and usually only use a 3/8 ratchet. No need for a long pull handle and really cracking down or the manifold will warp.
 
The manifold washers are made to provide equal clamping load on the two manifolds, even when they (the tabs on the manifolds) are of unequal thickness. They just tilt a little and will equalize the load from the nut on the stud. This is important to even the compression of the gasket. The concave side is toward the engine to achieve this.
 
"And once again that is just my 1¢ worth. :eek:"

Thanks Y-Blockhead! Informative thread and worth every penny of it. ;)

Mike in Oregon
 
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