Exhaust leak

Don S

Senior Member
A couple of weeks ago I was asking for advice on hot oil smell getting into my coupe. As advised I did a close look at the exhaust manifold. There were light black marks next to the exhaust ports that I rubbed off with my finger. Upon closer look both manifold gaskets ( a 2 piece ) had moved a bit causing the gasket to buckle between the studs. Needless to say ,it leaked. There may be a good point here for the glands that Henry put in the block to locate the manifold.,without the gasket moving. I think I will replace the glands ( rings) and new 1 piece gasket as original. Any thoughts ?
 
You will have to check the alignment of the ports with a machinists straight edge or possibly a carpenters square, to ensure the manifold is straight along the ports if you are going to use the gland rings. A little bit of a *#&*+' if you don't to get a good fit.
 
Perhaps the manifold/block interface was not one of Ford's better ideas. With many As that have passed through my hands I've had to renew the manifold.
Use of gland rings helps - but since some of them have proved too big they may need fettling to permit manifold to fit ( assemble everthying first without gasket). When you are tightening up the manifold do it nice and even on each stud so it squares up correctly. have found the one piece gaket easier and better than the 2 piece
 
I took my manifold to a machine shop and they made it flat again where it mounts to the engine, The machinist said there was about a dime thickness difference. The cost was about $25.00. I think he gave me a good price because he had a model "A" in high school.

I had a gasket that was green in color. It did not last too long. I like the gasket that is black and has a little metal reinforcing.

I always have problems with a leak between the exhaust pipe and the manifold. The model "T" design was better for this connection.

The Machinist wanted the intake and exhaust manifolds bolted together before he surfaced them.
 
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After surfacing the exhaust manifold, if you're going to use gland rings (although you may not need them then), the recess for the gland rings will be shallower by the amount removed by surfacing. Make sure the gland rings don't bottom out and prevent clamping the gasket.
 
Gland rings should solve your problem with gasket shifting, i had the same problem and gland rings finial solved the problem.
 
i bought new intake and exhaust manifolds and installed with gland rings. did not have to machine the surface and fit perfect like a glove. you may find an old exhaust manifold maybe tough to install with the rings as they warp and may also crack easily when fitting it on. for about 200.00 it may save you alot of agg..
 
i bought new intake and exhaust manifolds and installed with gland rings. did not have to machine the surface and fit perfect like a glove. you may find an old exhaust manifold maybe tough to install with the rings as they warp and may also crack easily when fitting it on. for about 200.00 it may save you alot of agg..


Just because they are new does not mean they are straight. I think the two manifolds should be bolted together and checked for straightness before installing them on the engine. They might need surfacing even if they are new. Chances are the two manifolds were manufactured by different companies at different times and the mating surface of the two manifolds are not in the same plane as the surface of the engine block.
 
Just because they are new does not mean they are straight. I think the two manifolds should be bolted together and checked for straightness before installing them on the engine. They might need surfacing even if they are new. Chances are the two manifolds were manufactured by different companies at different times and the mating surface of the two manifolds are not in the same plane as the surface of the engine block.

i purchased 2 separate sets and they were both true maybe i got lucky
 
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