Exhaust leak...BADDDD!!!

ETAModel

ETAModel

Senior Member
I started driving the 30 Fordor last summer, in Texas, so every window was open to keep from melting. That winter I drove it to a local garage for radiator work, then drove it back home. The return trip was frigid, so we had her buttoned up. I had a killer headache and felt woozy when I got her home. We could smell exhaust fumes, just figured that was how it worked.

Cranked it today with some help, my friend said you have a bad exhaust leak where the exhaust pipe enters the manifold. He's had an A for years. He told me there's a copper gasket or sleeve to put in the joint where the manifold and pipe meet to stop or slow the exhaust leak.

I haven't looked online for it yet, but was hoping someone could steer (pun intended) me in the right direction.

Thanks
ET
 
The sleeve linked to above is good at what it does, which primarily is helping the muffler and the exhaust manifold line up correctly. It's very easy to attach them so that they're slightly misaligned, which often leads to an exhaust leak. You can eyeball it, you can measure it, or you can use the sleeve.

When repositioning the muffler, be sure your tailpipe clamp is loose (they're designed to be loose).
 
Yep, what the fellas said. And there are top/ bottom sides to that clamp.
Are there holes thru the firewall for a heater ? There should be a flapper on it.
 
You might not need to get the additional gasket. Most A's don't have them installed.

Take it loose from the exhaust manifold and clean the mating surfaces well. Then place a floor jack under the muffler and jack it up so it mates with the manifold. Adjust it so it lines up well. If your muffler flange has a ripple or bend in it you can take a small ball peen hammer and form the muffler flange to the exhaust manifold for a better fit.

While keeping things lined up carefully lower the jack just enough so you can apply a thin bead of muffler cement to the muffler flange. Jack the muffler back into place and install the muffler clamp. Allow the cement to dry for a day before starting.

Having a friend help run the jack while you keep things lined up is a plus.
Also loosening the tail pipe clamp and extra little bit while doing this can help.
 
Good Morning...Many of the after market mufflers that have come along in the last 90 years have much smaller flanges than the Ford drawings call for...its these small flanges that don't go under the muffler clamp flanges that cause most of the trouble...we had a member re-due his with great care and pride...another member reached in and grabbed the muffler pipe, gave it a mild tug and the muffler hit the ground! Bad words were expressed...the same member that pulled the muffler off had another old spare with the correct flange...we put that one on...and pull as you might and it stays put and does not leak...and it sounds like a Model A. After 90 years...lots of strange parts on our cars put there by prior owners. Ernie in Arizona
 
ET - your friend may have been talking about this. I've used it and had success. The big trick is making sure your exhaust pipe is properly lined up to the manifold. It often takes a bit of juggling, bending, jacking, tweaking and cussing to get it right. A sleeve or gasket won't compensate for improper alignment.

https://www.macsautoparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?&q=exhaust%20gasket

As 1crosscut says, you can also use muffler cement (like https://www.permatex.com/products/s...ermatex-muffler-tailpipe-sealer/?locale=en_us) between the exhaust pipe and manifold. If either of them have significant pitting or rusting this might be the thing. Again, cleaning of the mating surfaces and alignment are critical.

JayJay
 
JayJay said:
A sleeve or gasket won't compensate for improper alignment.
Click to expand...

Why wouldn't a sleeve compensate for improper alignment? The whole point of the sleeve is that it slides tightly into each bore and forces them to align properly.
 
Also don't be underneath the car while trying to wiggle the muffler in place and fighting with the clamps. It wasn't set in place 100%, slipped and hit my forehead.


Wished the manifold was about 1 or 2" longer so the clamp and bolts are not in the way of the oil return.
 
When I bought my car the exhaust leaked at the clamp and I fiddled around and stopped the leaks as best as was possible. When I reinstalled the engine this last winter I bought the aries off bratton's and I was prepared to have a battle getting it to fit up but to my delight it went on and no leaks without a lot of adjusting. A very good product and along with the pipe I replaced the muffler clamp remember there is a right way and a wrong way to mount the clamp to the pipe and manifold.
 
I had two problems with my repo muffler. one,,, the flange is not a true 45 degrees,, two the inlet pipe was not a true 90 degrees from the muffler/tail pipe


A muffler shop corrected the problems, and the exhaust pipe lined up on the first try and it even lined up with the rear bracket.

JB
 
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I have had good luck with heavy alum foil ,take about four lairs
fold it and rap that around the tail pipe and muffler then install the clamp
works great. also holding the muffler up with floor jack.
Dennis
 
In the Navy its called 'fantail liberty'..your stuck at sea, throw your money overboard and bang your head on a chock..you wake up broke,woozy and with a headache so you must have had a good time
 
My experience: My original muffler was shot so I got an Aries. It still would not line up exactly even though I left the rear hanger somewhat loose to aid fitting at the manifold. I wound up having a leak so I bought the sleeve and that seems to have done the trick. I also smear on some muffler paste on the joint and you can buy that at any auto supply store. Then I tightened the rear hanger but not to the point that it can't expand/contract. I have heard that there is a possibility of a couple inches hot vs cold. Just know that the hanger will probably rattle a bit. Also, a handy way to check to see just how much of an exhaust leak you have is to put your shop vac on blow and tape the shop vac hose to the tail pipe (car cold). Turn of the vac and go to the manifold joint with some Windex and spray the joint and see how your bubbles look.
 
Bill G said...Just know that the hanger will probably rattle a bit.

Well that tears it...I want the model A to be Absolutely Quiet in the cab, so you can hear a pin drop...Oh wait, I was dreaming ��
 
Ernie Vitucci said:
Good Morning...Many of the after market mufflers that have come along in the last 90 years have much smaller flanges than the Ford drawings call for...its these small flanges that don't go under the muffler clamp flanges that cause most of the trouble...we had a member re-due his with great care and pride...another member reached in and grabbed the muffler pipe, gave it a mild tug and the muffler hit the ground! Bad words were expressed...the same member that pulled the muffler off had another old spare with the correct flange...we put that one on...and pull as you might and it stays put and does not leak...and it sounds like a Model A. After 90 years...lots of strange parts on our cars put there by prior owners. Ernie in Arizona
Click to expand...


Too bad you don’t have that on video. That’s a hoot! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you have a canopy on the back of a Model A Pickup, you will get carbon monoxide sucked into it, even if your exhaust system is A1. So be careful if you are in the back on a longish trip. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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