Exhaust leak at manifold

Brendan

Brendan

Well-known member
i have a exhaust leak at the header where it bolts to the block. i have, changed the gasket, and still leaks. i won't to get the header resurfaced.its the cast iron one. do i need to get the intake resurfaced with it, so they can take off the same amount
 
this is the set up i have
 

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YES!! I futzed with pesky assed leaks on Minerva. Used different types of gaskets, etc. FINALLY, I used the laminated COPPER gasket, with a thin ring of Exhaust Sealer on each side & she was PERFECTLY QUIET!!
Bill Kzhaustfixer
katy said:
Would using muffler cement for gasket sealer work?
Click to expand...
 
Measure the tabs on the manifolds,if the intake and exhaust are different thicknesses it will affect your clamping force.You can avoid the machine shop as well.
 
The problems with stock cast iron manifolds is that over time the rear cylinder port will droop. When this happens you can never line up all four ports anymore. The only fix is a new manifold.
 
Do you have a way to hold the two together so you can straight edge the block mating edge? . The key is as mentioned, the ears the concave washers go on, have to be the same height, as well as the two manifolds have to be flush.
 
The cast header and weber intake are stout,no 'droop'like on an A exhaust manifold. Im doing a vacuum leak on one lashed to a Miller/Serr head..the washers provided dont bridge as well as stock A ones do.the tab height is critical for a good seal.
 
Buy the repro exhaust and intake manifold setup. They are well worth the money and along with an Aries muffler you will achieve a leak less setup that sounds like a Model A should.
 
I concur with Ron on above post. I saw a young fellow last week who spent a lot of money in a Weber and header setup like that and in all honesty he would have saved a ton of money and ran better for his stock worn out engine than the setup. Unfortunate advice and way to much unnecessary funds spent from the forum here in my opinion.

His appeared to havechecsamd issue. I think it should be surfaced the same but agree the larger face washers would pull in better then he small ones supplied.

My vote would be a stock manifold but you’ll most likely have to find someone willing to surface them to get them to seal properly
Larry shepard
 
Last Fall, I took delivery on a cast iron header as you show in your photo in Post #2. It was warped right from the supplier. I noticed it before I installed it and Snyder's promptly shipped me a replacement that was straight.

Something happened during the machining...Maybe you received one from the same batch!

The photos you show look like new product...Maybe you could exchange it for a straight one.
Good Day!
 
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i took the manifold off today. took it to the Machine shop, he checked it with a straight edge. it was straight. the gasket dose not fit right. you can see where it dose not fit. there was a bad casting. i had it on the car where it did not leak. i have to order a new gasket and fit it right
 
Use muffler caulk (cement)! That is what I used for joining the exhaust pipe to the manifold, been that way now for over a year. No reason the same will not work between engine and exhaust manifold!
 
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