everything shuts down

If you have an accessory Amp meter? That could be a source for problems you describe. Had one in my 55 years ago and it had heavy wires going to it. All power to the car ran through it and its connections. Just a thought - Bob
 
rotorwrench said:
Does this car have circuit breakers. A short in one of the systems may have started this if it is a breaker but I've had breakers that just gave out for no apparent reason before.
Click to expand...


The headlight switch houses two circuit breakers for lighting on '55 and '56 Ford cars. Anything else that the factory deemed needing overcurrent protection had inline fuses.
On the '55 and '56 Ford cars, the main yellow heavy gage battery wire runs from the starter solenoid to the battery terminal of the ignition switch and jumpers over to the batt terminal of the headlight switch.
In the case of power loss I experienced, both breakers would have had to be tripped (and later reset themselves), however you would still have power to the heater blower motor, cigar lighter, radio, etc. Those things were dead too. Everything was dead.
 
Bob-93021 said:
If you have an accessory Amp meter? That could be a source for problems you describe. Had one in my 55 years ago and it had heavy wires going to it. All power to the car ran through it and its connections. Just a thought - Bob
Click to expand...
I do not have an amp meter wired ahead of the ignition switch, so that wasn't it.
 
Herman Munster said:
I remember once disconnecting the battery in a 51 Cadillac while the car was running. I did it only to try and switch batteries in it while running thinking I could get it to charge a weak battery. It shut down completely. I used to do it with cars that had alternators often back then because I didn't have a battery charger.
Click to expand...


There have been times when I have disconnected the battery while the engine was running to check if the generator would still fire the spark plugs with the battery disconnected (meaning that the charging system is working).
I took your post to mean that the weak battery you connected to the running car shut the engine down because that battery you were trying to charge was shorted out (bad). Right?
 
Anyway, it has been several days now that I have replaced the old battery with a new one from Autozone. Have driven the wagon everyday since and have even been to the exact same places, including pulling into my driveway several times, but now there is no problem, so I assume the battery I had was shorting out at the bottom. It was only 3 years old. The new battery I got is rated 450 CCa and is smaller than the Exide battery I had before. This new battery costed $108.00 including tax minus the core charge. They offered a bigger battery but it would have costed around $50 bucks more. Whew.
 
I was told by our local GM dealer here that battery life is expected to be 3 years now. That has been proven to be correct in my RV. Whats going on??
 
It's called "planned obsolescence" they give the battery a 72 month warranty free replacement within 24 months (for instance) battery dies then they pro-rate the adjustment and they make money ;) Back in the 60's when I worked for Sears it wasn't uncommon for a 36 month battery to last 6-8 years not much profit in that. If you live in a hot area like Phoenix it's almost better to buy a battery with less plates as they will last longer because there is more room in the case for plate expansion. I adjusted a lot of batteries back in the day you learn stuff when you are behind the counter. It's like anything these days things don't last but they are more than glad to sell you that "extended warranty" ripoff.
 
I think battery life is a crap shoot. The OEM in my 95 F150 was 10 years 8 months old when replaced. My wife killed it on more then one occasion by leaving the dome light on. Came right back to life. The OEM in my 93 Mustang was 2 years old when it quit. The OEM in my 08 Mustang was 7 years old when it died. Go figure.....
 
However they are doing it one thing for sure it is being done to line their pockets and not help the us the customer. That is why I now carry a "jumper box". Have used it twice and it works great.............at least it was not on my vehicles!!
 
50fordcoupeman said:
I was told by our local GM dealer here that battery life is expected to be 3 years now. That has been proven to be correct in my RV. Whats going on??
Click to expand...

I bought an Interstate battery from Costco two months ago and it was only rated for 36 months. Two years ago I bought the same battery for another car and it was rated for 72 months. They cost the same.
It's like 50fordcoupeman said everything "is being done to line their pockets and not help the us the customer".
 
My buddy is an Exide dealer, he sells them out of his repair shop. I got one for his cost, either $65 or $75, so I can't kick. The gold standard was the Sears Diehard, but not even sure if they are still in business.
 
Batteries are not "pro rated" anymore.
They have a 1, 2 or 3 year replacement warranty and they are made to last only that long.
I have been getting 6 years out of AGM (absorbent glass mat) AKA Gel batteries in my Harley. I have a connection and only pay about $20 more than a standard battery.
Not sure if anyone makes a 6V Gel battery yet.

Keep the battery charged, but not overcharged when parked.
I am not a fan of battery tenders.
 
In 1977 I needed a new battery for a 1971 Plymouth Duster 340.
I saw an ad from Montgomery Wards for a "Lifetime" Battery for about 75 bucks.
I got it and they installed it. The tech told me that when it started to fail, or, if I just wanted a new battery, to take a long thin screw driver and drive it thru the plates at an angle to make the battery go bad. Then, come in for a replacement.
The good old days??? Honest employee? Geez
Strange
Jim

On another note, I'm going on 8 years with an Odyssey battery in my 32 Ford.
Cost was about $125.00 delivered
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top