Evaporust
- Thread starter Burgamot
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
It will likely evaporate during that time. I use a different product but with the same result. Generally I will fill the block and cover allowing to set overnight. Then flush and allow to set another 24 hours soaking. Flush the second time and you should be good.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Perhaps you are aware of the info below, here is my review of thermocure, hope it is helpful.
You can use Thermocure instead, made by the same company, and is for cooling systems. Comes concentrated, put it in and add water. Since it is concentrated saves on shipping if you buy online. I've used it, left it in my A (radiator and block/head) for a couple of weeks and ran it as coolant. 1 bottle does about 2 treatments if just doing the radiator.
Since I had tons of rust, had to do multiple treatments. Once evaporust or thermocure is black like very used oil, it has lost its effectiveness. Leaving it in longer does not do more once it has turned black. Both are only active on rust, does not do anything to metal/hoses, rubber/etc.. I do not believe it will work on scale. It leaves a soft grey very thin coating, which eventually flushes away, but can turn your coolant with a slight grey tinge to it. With use the coating will flush off over time.
If you have a horrible radiator, there is the possibility that it will leak after use. But that would be due to that you have pinholes/bad-cracked solder joints that are blocked/sealed by rust scale, and have removed the rust/scale. This happened to me on 1 of the two radiators I've used this stuff on.
When I drained it out, drained it into a large tub, and then filtered it. Very little debris, no flakes, a teaspoon or less of grit. Bac flushed it and got a little more grit. So the majority of the rust "dissolved" into the liquid. The grit may not have been rust since it was not brown/black. Could have been casting sand, or scale that loosened up. I have seen one reviewer who indicate he got a few flakes. Best practice after draining is to backflush thoroughly before flushing. Reduce the chances of clogging the radiator.
You can use Thermocure instead, made by the same company, and is for cooling systems. Comes concentrated, put it in and add water. Since it is concentrated saves on shipping if you buy online. I've used it, left it in my A (radiator and block/head) for a couple of weeks and ran it as coolant. 1 bottle does about 2 treatments if just doing the radiator.
Since I had tons of rust, had to do multiple treatments. Once evaporust or thermocure is black like very used oil, it has lost its effectiveness. Leaving it in longer does not do more once it has turned black. Both are only active on rust, does not do anything to metal/hoses, rubber/etc.. I do not believe it will work on scale. It leaves a soft grey very thin coating, which eventually flushes away, but can turn your coolant with a slight grey tinge to it. With use the coating will flush off over time.
If you have a horrible radiator, there is the possibility that it will leak after use. But that would be due to that you have pinholes/bad-cracked solder joints that are blocked/sealed by rust scale, and have removed the rust/scale. This happened to me on 1 of the two radiators I've used this stuff on.
When I drained it out, drained it into a large tub, and then filtered it. Very little debris, no flakes, a teaspoon or less of grit. Bac flushed it and got a little more grit. So the majority of the rust "dissolved" into the liquid. The grit may not have been rust since it was not brown/black. Could have been casting sand, or scale that loosened up. I have seen one reviewer who indicate he got a few flakes. Best practice after draining is to backflush thoroughly before flushing. Reduce the chances of clogging the radiator.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Just re-read your post again, realize I did not read it correctly, you are treating the block.
Still can use the thermocure. Info is pretty much the same. Take the water pump off and use a plate/seal to seal the Water pump opening. When drained you should be able to monitor how things are by viewing through t he Water pump opening , and some through the lower Block Coolant inlet with the neck off.
Some hook up a small pump and circulate the liquid, even putting it on a timer to circulate for 5-10 minutes every hour.
When you are ready to install the new radiator install an upper hose coolant filter. Don't want to clog up your new radiator if the block still has crud in it. Once it has run for a while and your not getting stuff in the filter, you can always remove it. The Gano filter is frequently mentioned on the Barn, but there are other methods/options. Do a search here and there are many options/opinions on filters that are used.
Still can use the thermocure. Info is pretty much the same. Take the water pump off and use a plate/seal to seal the Water pump opening. When drained you should be able to monitor how things are by viewing through t he Water pump opening , and some through the lower Block Coolant inlet with the neck off.
Some hook up a small pump and circulate the liquid, even putting it on a timer to circulate for 5-10 minutes every hour.
When you are ready to install the new radiator install an upper hose coolant filter. Don't want to clog up your new radiator if the block still has crud in it. Once it has run for a while and your not getting stuff in the filter, you can always remove it. The Gano filter is frequently mentioned on the Barn, but there are other methods/options. Do a search here and there are many options/opinions on filters that are used.
denniskliesen
Well-known member
The OP asked about using Evaporust NOT thermocure. Why would you take the water pump off if it isn't leaking? That makes no sense at all. Cap off the side of the block and fill it to near the top of the neck at the top of the engine. Allow enough for expansion. Do not dilute the evaporust, put in full strength. I used it in my block and left it there for 3 weeks once. Power washed it out and put a Gano filter in before running it. The brass screen started to tear so I removed it and made a similar type stainless filter screen. There is no reason to ever take a Gano filter out even if you think you will never need it again. Just take it out at least once a year and check it, clean if needed. I recently changed my water pump and had debris that came loose 2-1/2 years later from the block and head. Model A engines that have ever had rust flakes will always have rust flakes breaking loose.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
It is basically the same stuff by the same company. when I looked at the cost, thermocure was a little less cost and if buying it on line less costly to have shipped to you. save on shipping. I have also used Evaporust, as you pointed out you do not dilute it. Both worked equally well.
Taking the water pump off allows you to visually see through the water pump holes if you need to do additional treatments. Use of a borescope is also handy.
Some people do not like having a visible filter and want things original looking. I also do highly recommend a filter at least at 1st with A new radiator. Then if he desires he can remove it.
Everything I put in the post is info that pertains to both Evaporust and Thermocure.
There are many methods, I was giving him what I do, and he can decide how he wants to do it. Did not mean to say my way is th oonly best way.
Taking the water pump off allows you to visually see through the water pump holes if you need to do additional treatments. Use of a borescope is also handy.
Some people do not like having a visible filter and want things original looking. I also do highly recommend a filter at least at 1st with A new radiator. Then if he desires he can remove it.
Everything I put in the post is info that pertains to both Evaporust and Thermocure.
There are many methods, I was giving him what I do, and he can decide how he wants to do it. Did not mean to say my way is th oonly best way.
I used rust 911, same stuff I guess. After doing some parts that needed the rust stabilized, I let the now used black rust 911 sit in a pan for a week or two. Something settled to the bottom and the liquid on top is now clear. Can someone tell me if the clear stuff is good to use or has the active ingredient been used up? Sorry, I am not trying to hijack your post. Jack
denniskliesen
Well-known member
Seeing through the water pump holes gains you little if anything. What are you going to do about it if you see something. Just let the evaporated it’s job.
They make 3 types of Gano filters. Aluminum, brass, and the poly housing. Why do you need to see through it? Just let it do it’s job and leave it alone until it needs to be maintained a year or less later.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
What I meant by visible is being able to see a filter is installed, purists do not like anything that does not look original to the time frame of the car. .
In my truck, it was so full of rust, it took 3 treatments to get it clean, The thermocure was used up, once it and evaporust turns extremely black it is used up, leaving it in longer does not remove more rust, even says so on their website and in the instructions. So for me I wanted to be able to see when things were cleaned out.