Evapo Rust vs Apple Cider Vinegar

Old Henry, it looks as though the only paint that is missing from the right pump is the black paint. The blue paint below it still shows evidence of existing. Perhaps the black paint was never applied correctly to begin with?
Nice article by the way.
 
I have used evapo-rust mixed with white vinegar and boy does that work nice. rince with water then smear evapo-rust over the part it will protect it from the elements for awhile or until your ready to paint the part.
 
May be a bit off topic but ever try citric acid powder mixed with water? Mixing 8 ounces of powder per gallon of water I completly submerged a flathead block in a tub filled with the citric and water mixture. After a day it came out looking like new iron even inside the water passeges were cleaned.
Same block running in my rear engine modified roadster at Bonneville holds gas blown flathead record at 192.448. Engine ran cool part of the reason was the insides were free of rust citric acid cleaned it perfectly for a lot less money than using a whole lot of evaporust.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
May be a bit off topic but ever try citric acid powder mixed with water? Mixing 8 ounces of powder per gallon of water I completly submerged a flathead block in a tub filled with the citric and water mixture. After a day it came out looking like new iron even inside the water passeges were cleaned.
Same block running in my rear engine modified roadster at Bonneville holds gas blown flathead record at 192.448. Engine ran cool part of the reason was the insides were free of rust citric acid cleaned it perfectly for a lot less money than using a whole lot of evaporust.
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Where did you get the powder?
 
Andy69 said:
It all has to do with the way you set it up. Electrolysis is used to derust iron cannon quite successfully. It's a standard method for conservation of iron objects from salt water.

It's more or less a line of sight deal. The current will travel from the cathode to the anode. The larger the anode, the more rust you will remove. One piece of rebar used as an anode will result in rust removal on the surface of the part facing the anode. For successful rust removal, you want to surround the part with the anode. I've used a large number of pieces of rebar wired together, but chicken wire works well. The big conservation labs will use the a big tub or vat as the anode - picture a garbage dumpster full of water with the parts in it. You want the part surrounded by the anode for best results.

You also need an electrolyte in the water. I've always used washing soda.
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Like this!
Yes, time consuming, and I have to clean the anode regularly, otherwise the process stops.
After I pressure washers with hot water to get rid of (I say sooty surface has no better word for it).

Jorgen
 

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I've used "Metal Rescue" as well (the local "Home Depot" has it in stock), and it seems to be equivalent to "Evaporust" in both formulation and function.
 
JSeery is absolutely right. The principal used in the chemical reaction is to remove carbon, the carbon is most easily removed in the rust so it reacts on the rust first. But after the rust is gone it will continue to react on the carbon in the steel all be it at a much slower rate. Ya can't just forget about it, gotta keep an eye on it.
 
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