Evans Cool and skip's pumps
- Thread starter 36fordguy
- Start date
Loc Carson City Nv . A combination altitude and temperature keeps me near boiling ( about 190 to 200) . It has a Griffin Rad in my 36 PU I'm only running a 4# cap not sure how High I can go in pressure before I have any problems. Last year it boiled on 100 plus day after getting in stop and go traffic mainly when you stop and the heat soak sends the temp up. This year I would like to correct this and be able to go to lake tahoe at noon time (2000 ft climb in about 10 mi)
deuce lover
Well-known member
In my 36 I had a built 59AB and used Fryer pumps(have bronze impellers and sealed bearings)Walker radiator w/7lb cap .I also had Evans cool.Never ever had any cooling issues.I have an extra unopened gallon of Evans cool for free if you pay the shipping.
Bassman/NZ
Well-known member
I'm sure your Griffin will handle 7lbs no problem. As water is proven to have better cooling qualities than antifreeze, you would benefit from plain water plus corrosion inhibitor, combined with a 7lb cap will probably fix it. Sorry, I have no idea whether the Evans coolant is any good.
That's interesting Bassman, that water cools better on its own, rather than mixed with anti freeze/summer coolant. Never seen that. I guess theres proof out there in inernet world?
I'm not questioning your knowledge here, just I thunk that anti freeze raised the boiling point of water, and in doing so would take some stress off the cooling system.
Martin.
I'm not questioning your knowledge here, just I thunk that anti freeze raised the boiling point of water, and in doing so would take some stress off the cooling system.
Martin.
Old Henry
Well-known member
Here's a graphic illustration of the difference in cooling abilities between water alone, water with hyper-lube super coolant, water, antifreeze, and super coolant, and water and antifreeze alone. All of this from the hy-per lube super coolant container.
The instructions on the bottle say, "Using less than 50% anti-freeze will improve temperature reduction." But, the instructions on another brand of coolant says to never run with water alone without some anti-freeze.
So, it's true. Water is a better thermal conductor than anti-freeze. The "raising of the boiling point" of water by anti-freeze only makes a difference in a non-pressured system, not a pressurized system where the pressure keeps the water from boiling, not the anti-freeze.
So, because I drive my car all year 'round from minus zero temperatures in the winter to 100+ temperatures in the summer, I put just enough anti-freeze to protect down to the expected winter low (about a gallon), with a couple of bottles of hy-per lube, which increases the cooling ability of the water over 50-50 mix in the heat of the summer.
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Old Henry
Well-known member
You should know that Skip does not recommend his pumps to be used with thermostats. Their impeller is a "multi-flow" design that will increase water flow only without the resistance of a thermostat. To move water through a thermostat one needs the extra pressure created by a centrifugal impeller as the stock and all modern replacements (except Skips) are. So, the only way to move more water with Skip's pumps is to run them without thermostats. (Won't any pump move more water without thermostats?) There are plenty of very good reasons not to run an engine without thermostats. So, put 2 and 2 together and there you have it.
Whether running stock pumps or Skips pumps MOST modern thermostats have small passages that restrict the flow of coolant. This causes less coolant to be able to flow through the radiator, this is in effect the same as the radiator being clogged up. The only stats that do not restrict the flow that I know of are the Original Robertshaw 330-160 or 330-180 types. Modern ALMOST copies of these stats are not made of the same materials and there have been reported problems. Gadgiteer@aol.com Bob Shewman has a stock of the original Robertshaws's 330-180's. The stock ones fit 49 to 53 engine and he modifies them to fit in the hoses of 32 to 48 engines. I have 4 sets and all of my cars run at 178 to 182 in all normal driving conditions. They don't over come the high idle temperatures due to the poor fans and fan locations on the old Fords. These engines should never run over 200 if your cooling system is working and at less than 205 pressure is not a consideration because the pressure is less than 2 or 3 lbs. We along with thousands of others use 2 gallons on long life permanent anti-freeze and two bottles of Purple Ice or other water wetting agents. There are spots in the block and heads where small oxygen bubbles form insulating the metal from the coolant. This forms hot spots of steam. The wetting agent removes the bubbles allowing the coolant to come in contact with the metal. The center of the heads is one area where you can observe the cooling effect change with a laser pointed thermometer in 20 minutes after installing the wetting agent. I know nothing about the cooling anti-freeze as we never had a need for it. G.M.
Yes I would support what Bassman says also. We had a mustang as a track car and with 33% anti freeze at around 3 laps it would overheat. So on a cooling system reps recommendation we filled it with water and water wetter and had a great response and problem solved. So in ou flatheads now we only run water and water wetter. The cooling system rep had the theory that antifreeze did not transfer the heat as well and left air pockets and hot spots but did lower boiling point so was a catch 22.
Bassman/NZ
Well-known member
There was a big thread on the Hamb a couple of years ago about this, and their findings came from a laboratory, not the back of a coolant jar. However, everyone seems to have their own opinion on this, sorta like the oil issue.
Thanks for replies guys.
To 36fordguy, it seems a water wetter of some kind may help. There is experience in the answers above. Specially the roundy roundy mustang, kept that from boiling over in real back to back laps.
As for Evans coolant. Is that the waterless one? No body got experience of that? Personally I like something with water, you can top it up at any tap (faucet) with no problem. The waterless ones, I believe you can't put water in with it? That could leave you stranded in Moose But Montana.
Have a word with Skip, see what he thinks, he is the man who made the pumps.
I'd try upping the cap pressure first. Could be a cheap fix. What do Griffin recommend for pressure?
Martin
To 36fordguy, it seems a water wetter of some kind may help. There is experience in the answers above. Specially the roundy roundy mustang, kept that from boiling over in real back to back laps.
As for Evans coolant. Is that the waterless one? No body got experience of that? Personally I like something with water, you can top it up at any tap (faucet) with no problem. The waterless ones, I believe you can't put water in with it? That could leave you stranded in Moose But Montana.
Have a word with Skip, see what he thinks, he is the man who made the pumps.
I'd try upping the cap pressure first. Could be a cheap fix. What do Griffin recommend for pressure?
Martin
Old Henry
Well-known member
There is definitely a balance that must be struck between maximizing cooling in the summer and preventing freezing in the winter. If freezing was never a risk then plain water without antifreeze but a good anti-corrosive, pump lubricant, and water wetter may well be the best solution, in the short run. In the worst case scenario one could switch twice a year between that and water with anti-freeze for the winter. I used to do that but got tired of it and decided that whatever I added to plain water that was not antifreeze for the summer ruined my water pumps so now run minimal antifreeze all year round. As I said before, one of the water wetter manufacturers said to never run on water alone without any antifreeze.
I beleive if the coolant is slowed through the rad , that would allow the rad to displace the heat more efficiently. if how ever it is clogged the coolant is not circulated at all. just a thought .
Old Henry
Well-known member
At first glance that may seem to be logical, but, in actual practice, it doesn't work that way. The faster the water moves the better it cools.