Enough to make the pope mad...

1

1Metalbender

Member
Finally got time today to clean up my shop and start dismantling my 31 model a truck so I can get started on it. I had to use a torch to get the door pins to release, and for some reason my rosebud decided to go south for the winter I guess cause I couldn't find it nowhere...so with that in mind I did everything using my cutting tip...while I was careful as to how much heat I applied these door pins did not want to give up the ghost! The drivers side door was just the door edge and hinges, top and bottom pin came out with a little fight...middle pin wasn't having it so I cut the door side hinge since I've got a good one on the door I'm using...figured I'd surgically remove the pin later...the left side I had to save everything since it's all I got...bottom pin put up a fight...middle pin came out pretty as you please with hardly any effort and the top pin wasn't having any of it! I heated it let it cool a bit then used kryoil, let it set...more kryoil...then heated it again...finally got it to move a bit only to have the splined top break off...pin is now stuck and the door is trying to come off except the top of the pin is holding the door...tried to drive it back the other way, no dice! Finally after more heat I got it to move just a little and was able to use a pry bar to get the door off...once I did I noticed I had melted the cowl side of the hinge and the pin was still in it...:bang head I decided to call it a day before I made the situation worse that it already was...keep in mind I still have to get the rest of the screws and bolts out of this thing and Henry was the last guy to touch them I'm sure! Are they all like this or do I just have all the luck?
 
They are ALL like that and you can easily make a tool to remove them. I did it in my leeetle hobby mill. All it takes is 2 ½x3 pieces of material, I used brass because I have it.

Hold it together with superglue, drill 3 holes off center on both axises, tap the 2 outer holes on one piece, the center hole on the other piece. I used ¼20 because I had bolts long enough, make the opposed outer holes clearance for the screws, the center hole in the other piece ½".

If this isn't clear, one piece will be 3 holes from right to left, ¼20, ½" through, ¼20.
The other piece will be Clearance, ¼20, Clearance.

Now, clamp the Hinge top with the ½ hole on the head of the pin, clamp the bottom piece on with the center ¼20 on the bottom of the hinge, now, you will have to grind the tip of the pin screw, (center ¼20 screw) to make it under I think 7/32 because that is the hinge pin size, and just thread it up from the bottom, this WILL break it loose.

Imagine a chain breaker.

J.C.

Ps. I used Allen head cap screws because they cleared the body
 
Ok, you asked for it, got the kidlet to help. Never said they would be right side up!

Oh, I have to revise my stock size, that is ¼x1x3" stock, and you will notice that the holes are not centered because they need to clear the door.
 

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I snapped a mac roll pin punch in half trying to get the door pins out before I broke out the torches, don't know if that tool would of helped but I sure would of tried it...any suggestions for removing the rest of the bolts in this thing?
 
I always just knock the head off and drill them out. The metal is very soft and easy to penetrate. You only need to go an inch or so from the top and from the bottom. The pin then just knocks right out at that point. Using a torch on a good door will usually warp the door skin in that area..
 
Mitch//pa said:
I always just knock the head off and drill them out. The metal is very soft and easy to penetrate. You only need to go an inch or so from the top and from the bottom. The pin then just knocks right out at that point. Using a torch on a good door will usually warp the door skin in that area..
Click to expand...

Was heating the hinge not the door
 
I used the drill method. Heat did nothing. I also soaked the hinges for days. I was finally able to get the hinge pins out. Drilling was the only method that worked.

Thanks,
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Oops! Sorry. All these acronyms are confusing. Wish people could just spell things out.



Could that be used on electrical like when soldering on new brushes on your starters field coils?
Click to expand...

I use it on all kinda stuff...anything that you don't want heat to travel on...heat will not go past the gel...I don't see why it couldn't be used on electrical
 
Too bad you put the torch to them. Most guys I know that got them out drilled them like Mitch said or they made a press to push them out. Heat is not the answer to everything.

Check out the search link to FordBarn next time, it will be a big help!
 
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