Engine value.

1crosscut said:
I recently purchased a non running unknown internal condition engine for a price that both I and the seller thought was reasonable. I just sent him some additional money along with a hand written note letting him know that after opening it up I found that it was in better shape than either one of us has expected.
I figured that this was the right thing to do.
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You are a good man Dave. I would have done the same. Assume that was the diamond block.
 
It really boils down to what you will pay and what the seller will accept. I have sold good A engines for less than $500.
 
The OP was asking about buying, not selling. It is still a pig in a poke. A friend bought a similar running on the stand engine, and after a full rebuild had a very good engine.


correct J

based on what was told regarding hearing it run, anything less then 800. in my opinion is a joke. so many on this board want it all for free. just my opinion..........
 
so many on this board want it all for free. just my opinion

Glad you put “just my opinion”….I see a great variety of opinions on this specific post.
I don’t think being prudent in buying an engine means wanting it for free. Hear it run all you want….that doesn’t mean rebuild in 1k miles. One wouldn’t know if in 8 years it was run 2k miles or 30k miles.
Unless I know more, buying an engine is basically buying a core as are the components.
Not wanting for free just no pig in a poke!
 
I just purchased 4 complete Model B engines
The running take out, which I way over paid for, was the worst of the bunch.
The deck is cracked and the block sealed with water glass.
The piston skirts had been center punched to take out the slop the bores are worn out
The babbitt in the rods are cracked
The main babbitt looks good
Non counterbalanced crank
You don't know what you have until it is torn down
It's like a trip to the casino

Core price for a runner unless there is paperwork
 
ANY engine can turn out to be a lemon, on the flip side it could be a real gem. Listen carefully, warm it up good and look for blue smoke out the exhaust, listen for knocks or ?? Negotiate a price that you're both happy with, then when you get it home pull the head, valve cover, pan, and timing cover and check everything carefully. Accept the responsibility for the engine, I see so many times people want a full warranty while paying rock bottom prices. If everything seems tight and no smoke, I'd say TO ME it'd be worth $500 - $800.
 
Before paying, do a compression test, and check the crankshaft end play. I would drop the oil pan to see if there any shims left in the main bearings. If the seller says the motor is in running condition, have that put on the bill of sale with a refund policy.

If you buy a used engine of unknown history, expect it needs an overhaul before installing it in a Model "A".
 
Bob Bidonde said:
Before paying, do a compression test, and check the crankshaft end play. I would drop the oil pan to see if there any shims left in the main bearings. If the seller says the motor is in running condition, have that put on the bill of sale with a refund policy.

If you buy a used engine of unknown history, expect it needs an overhaul before installing it in a Model "A".
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Allowing a buyer to drop the pan and requesting a warranty would be a prohibition to most sellers! I know I wouldn’t agree to it.
 
I've had people ask to dismantle stuff before.They had read on the internet about how to inspect and buy.I'm not impolite to them,but it's not gonna happen.I just tell them that this one's not for them,I just wait for the right guy to come along.I went to look at a 400A about 15 years ago,and I was given a very clear detailed set of rules to come look.I was one of the few that agreed to them.It was eyeball and flashlight only.I could open the doors,hood,and the back seat had already been pulled out.I met the attorney there and had my look.No rolling down windows,no trying to turn the engine,just slide under it on some cardboard and look all I wanted to.
 
Before paying, do a compression test, and check the crankshaft end play. I would drop the oil pan to see if there any shims left in the main bearings. If the seller says the motor is in running condition, have that put on the bill of sale with a refund policy.

:). I needed that today......
 
J Franklin said:
Maybe, but it never hurts to ask.
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Same here. I'd be like "hey, you want the engine or not". If you bought a used engine for your 1972 Chevy pickup from the local wrecking yard, ya think they'd have that level of conversation with ya, or let you tear it open first?

If he starts it up for ya, and it's not knockin' give him the $400 or $500 bucks he is asking and take it home.

Otherwise you can call Terry Burtz.
 
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