katy
Well-known member
Not really necessary. "Double nut" the studs, if they come loose easily you can remove them, otherwise leave them in.
Engine Trouble
- Thread starter Steves46
- Start date
Not really necessary. "Double nut" the studs, if they come loose easily you can remove them, otherwise leave them in.
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
May not be applicatable to you, but my 5:5 head needed milled out of the box. .008”.
Synchro909
Well-known member
I know I'm about to start another debate but I always use a high temperature gasket sealer with copper in it on a Best Graphtite gasket. I'm sure a copper gasket would be just as good but I have the others on the shelf.
When you reassemble, I suggest you also use one of those sealers. Parmatex and Abro are good ones.
When you reassemble, I suggest you also use one of those sealers. Parmatex and Abro are good ones.
Steves46
Well-known member
Appreciate your feedback. Since this is a high compression head, I ordered Part # B-6051-XO Graphite Gasket from Snyder’s. I was planning on using the copper coat spray.
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1crosscut
Well-known member
If you use the copper coat spray just apply two or possibly three "very" light coats allowing them to get quite tacky in between coats and prior to assembly. Spray at an angle from the inside of the head gasket if you want to keep the outer edge of the gasket that shows clean and nice looking.
If you do get it on a bit too heavy and some squishes out when torqueing the head resist the urge to try to wipe if off. If you do you will end up with a smeary mess. It's better to let it alone and allow it to dry for several days and then come back with a razor blade or something similar and scrape the excess off then.
Make sure your gasket slides down over the head studs easily prior to spraying it with the copper coat. If necessary take a round file and take a bit of material off where its binding on a head stud or two.
It's a real pain and quite messy fighting a copper coated gasket down over studs.
If you do get it on a bit too heavy and some squishes out when torqueing the head resist the urge to try to wipe if off. If you do you will end up with a smeary mess. It's better to let it alone and allow it to dry for several days and then come back with a razor blade or something similar and scrape the excess off then.
Make sure your gasket slides down over the head studs easily prior to spraying it with the copper coat. If necessary take a round file and take a bit of material off where its binding on a head stud or two.
It's a real pain and quite messy fighting a copper coated gasket down over studs.
