Engine + Trans Install

yep

done it several times
old timer showed me.
at least with a stock head, it was strong enough to put your lifting eye in hole #3, gives perfect balance.

there have been some on here that said they tried that with a repop head and the head broke apart
 
I dont like the idea of $2000 hanging by a single spark plug hole, I used several straps (4 i think)the first time, 2nd time I used #1 and 4 holes and lifted above the 3, I also had to use a chain around the lower water neck up to my lifting hook to keep it level side to side.

Its OK if it tilts back a little - your gonna want that to line up the U joint. Should slip right on. You may have to lower it till the front motor mount is just about ready to touch the oil pan to get it to slip on. DO NOT stick your fingers in there to help align the U joint - it will slip on and crush your fingers faster than you think. Use tools or wood sticks.
 
I've done it with a repo head but I don't use the hook arrangement in #3. I use a couple of ropes tied off separately. One goes behind the crank pulley, the other between the back of the sump and the flywheel housing.
Now for a word of warning: When you align the spline in the universal with the drive shaft, DON'T put your fingers in there. When they line up, they can slide together very quickly and with enough force that the ends of your fingers will be left in there.:eek: It might take a little fiddling but I use a screw driver and pointy nosed pliers - what ever works. I want to keep my fingers coz I like to scratch when it itches.:D
 
There was a $ on that 2000. Think the engine and ****** is only 500 to 600 lbs. So your 1/2 ton will work.
 
I have used the #1 & #3 spark plug holes with a Chinese leveler that I bought years ago. It really makes the job easier. I think that H-F still sells them. I used a 1 ton cherry picker.

Vic
 
I have used a leveler but had ropes going around the engine. Got it over the light bar then in on a steep angle. Get the transmission just below the fire wall then level it out and push it on in. Having a helper helps.
 
wmws said:
I have used a leveler but had ropes going around the engine. Got it over the light bar then in on a steep angle. Get the transmission just below the fire wall then level it out and push it on in. Having a helper helps.
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My light bar is off (only 4 bolts) so it should be even easier. I'll give it a try this weekend...hopefully with a helper!

30827302402_10999e7208_c.jpg
 
Our club installed an engine this year complete with clutch, housings and ****** all assembled. Body on. The frame had to be spread a little in the process. Make sure the throttle linkage is removed from the flywheel housing and the screw type lifting bracket is a dream for this job.
Al
 
the pedals and steering column can be a bear to work around FYI. once again keep your fingers away from anything that can pinch.
 
Al 29Tudor said:
Our club installed an engine this year complete with clutch, housings and ****** all assembled. Body on. The frame had to be spread a little in the process. Make sure the throttle linkage is removed from the flywheel housing and the screw type lifting bracket is a dream for this job.
Al
Click to expand...


Throttle linkage is off. I have an adjustable lifting bracket but I've always had better luck NOT using them. I might give it another try.
 
ahh good, yea should be a cakewalk then. Just don't forget the turtle that covers the u joint before you slip it together. And the gaskets...
 
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