Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

So the saga continues...I replaced the Speedway water pumps last night with a pair modified by Skip Haney. The impellers are definitely different. There was nothing wrong with the impellers on the speedway pumps as they're only about 2 years old. No pitting
Because of the rain, I won't be able to test drive today
 
Test ride today and there's no difference. 73* outside today and the gauge read 205* at its highest.
Forgot to mention I went back to propylene glycol at a 50/50 ratio
 
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You need a radiator with a bigger core to dissipate more heat. God only knows you've tried everything else and then some. Hopefully Brassworks will meet you in the middle and get the right solution to your problem.

Best of luck,
B&S
 
Bored&Stroked said:
You need a radiator with a bigger core to dissipate more heat. God only knows you've tried everything else and then some. Hopefully Brassworks will meet you in the middle and get the right solution to your problem.

Best of luck,
B&S
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That's what I'm hoping for. You're right, I tried everything EXCEPT mounting a second fan which is what Brassworks recommended. I told Lee that wasn't an option for me. I don't like running one fan, but I don't have a choice because of the blower, pullies, etc. I'll email him this week.
 
jrvariel48 said:
That's what I'm hoping for. You're right, I tried everything EXCEPT mounting a second fan which is what Brassworks recommended. I told Lee that wasn't an option for me. I don't like running one fan, but I don't have a choice because of the blower, pullies, etc. I'll email him this week.
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I can understand how a second fan would help when the car isn't moving or is at low speed. BUT I think you've told us many times that your temps continue to rise out on the highway at highway speeds. At higher speeds the fans are doing nothing as you're pumping tons of air through the radiator core via the fact you're moving at a high rate of speed.

If your temperatures are rising to 205 on the highway and Lee says that a second fan is going to lower them, then I'm not buying that for one minute. No offense to Lee, but fans (any dang fans) are not helping you at 55 mph.

My goal would be for not higher than about 190 going down the highway - unless it was 100 degrees out and I was pulling some huge grade.


Best of luck, hope you get things sorted out.
B&S
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I can understand how a second fan would help when the car isn't moving or is at low speed. BUT I think you've told us many times that your temps continue to rise out on the highway at highway speeds. At higher speeds the fans are doing nothing as you're pumping tons of air through the radiator core via the fact you're moving at a high rate of speed.

If your temperatures are rising to 205 on the highway and Lee says that a second fan is going to lower them, then I'm not buying that for one minute. No offense to Lee, but fans (any dang fans) are not helping you at 55 mph.

My goal would be for not higher than about 190 going down the highway - unless it was 100 degrees out and I was pulling some huge grade.


Best of luck, hope you get things sorted out.
B&S
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B & S That's 100% correct. The only time I see an increase in temp is on the highway. When I get off the highway, the temp drops back down.
Thanks
 
There was a post on a drake rad with problems, out come was plugged tubes from factory, maybe you got a brass works (drake rad style with plugged tubes ) any way to check the flow ?
 
One of my friends had an issue where the flat head ran around 200 degrees. But it never got any hotter or lost water, it did have a catch can, He put a piece of tape over the temp gauge and enjoyed the heat while driving in the winter.
 
kurt v said:
There was a post on a drake rad with problems, out come was plugged tubes from factory, maybe you got a brass works (drake rad style with plugged tubes ) any way to check the flow ?
Click to expand...

I'm sure there's a formula for that flow ratio, but I don't know what it is. I can put water into the filler neck, but I really can tell if individual tubes are clogged.

Anyone have a way to test this???
 
slowforty said:
One of my friends had an issue where the flat head ran around 200 degrees. But it never got any hotter or lost water, it did have a catch can, He put a piece of tape over the temp gauge and enjoyed the heat while driving in the winter.
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I installed a 2 quart overflow tank which works well. I had a smaller tank and it kept puking water coolant and it was always empty when the motor cooler. I thought maybe air was getting into the system, but the larger tank disproved that theory.
The outside temp was 43* degrees today when I went for my ride. It didn't go over 180* even without the fan on the entire 1 hour ride!
 
With 43 degrees outside temp the engine should be no where's near 180 degrees running temp it should be a lot lower. I realize you were able to finally drive an hour without the fan on the entire time but there's a still HUGE problem with that cooling system. I'm thinking RADIATOR is the problem.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
With 43 degrees outside temp the engine should be no where's near 180 degrees running temp it should be a lot lower. I realize you were able to finally drive an hour without the fan on the entire time but there's a still HUGE problem with that cooling system. I'm thinking RADIATOR is the problem.
Ronnieroadster
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Yup. See post #4.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Oh heck that was only three months ago :D
Now just think if the radiator was changed at the beginning of all this how many fun miles would have been driven since then.
.
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I think the OP has no intention of ever changing out his radiator. He's having too much fun keeping this thread going on forever.
 
ford38v8 said:
I think the OP has no intention of ever changing out his radiator. He's having too much fun keeping this thread going on forever.
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Believe me this has not been fun at all. I can think of better things to do with my time than chase this problem. I've also spent well over $3000 between the radiator, the repair to the radiator, the water pumps, the different coolants, etc.,etc., etc. There's a point to be proven in the name of process of elimination and seeing a problem through. It's my money and my time.
Hopefully people are learning from this post.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Oh heck that was only three months ago :D
Now just think if the radiator was changed at the beginning of all this how many fun miles would have been driven since then.
.
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Ron, the driving is always fun and never a burden. I just had to focus on my temp but that didn't stop me from driving!
 
jrvariel48 said:
Believe me this has not been fun at all. I can think of better things to do with my time than chase this problem. I've also spent well over $3000 between the radiator, the repair to the radiator, the water pumps, the different coolants, etc.,etc., etc. There's a point to be proven in the name of process of elimination and seeing a problem through. It's my money and my time.
Hopefully people are learning from this post.
Click to expand...

Ya, the lesson to be learned is how to ignore the advice you’ve asked for.
 
(1) flathead rule of thumb/safe operating temperature; ambient air temp in degrees + 100
(2) your current powerplant is producing more BTUs than your radiator can reject.
 
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