Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

cmbrucew said:
Joe
With all the work and time you have invested trying to make the brassworks radiator results better, why not put the ugly aluminum radiator back in and drive it.
Mount it on the wall and put a dartboard on it.

My .02 cents


Bruce
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Hahaha! Bruce, I hear what you're saying! I'm just trying to be methodical and try everything possible. I figure with the end of summer coming, the temps will be drop and I'll have more time to change the radiator.
Thanks Joe
 
The enormous amount of work and expense you put into experimenting and testing trying to find a solution to a poorly designed radiator has been interesting but from what I can tell its not going to solve the actual problem. There's no miracle cure for a radiator that's not going to work.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
The enormous amount of work and expense you put into experimenting and testing trying to find a solution to a poorly designed radiator has been interesting but from what I can tell its not going to solve the actual problem. There's no miracle cure for a radiator that's not going to work.
Ronnieroadster
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Understood Ronnie. I'm putting the radiator project on the back burner for now. When I went out on Sunday I had to cut the ride short because of a intermittent clunking sound coming from the back of the car.
Always interesting!!
Thanks, Joe
 
I'm with "Ronnieroadster" on this. The only way to solve an insufficient coolant flow problem is to increase it. Fans, better airflow, and anything else is an exercise in futility.

Your "bull-headed" determination will not solve the problem.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
The enormous amount of work and expense you put into experimenting and testing trying to find a solution to a poorly designed radiator has been interesting but from what I can tell its not going to solve the actual problem. There's no miracle cure for a radiator that's not going to work.
Ronnieroadster
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I'm not sure I'm seeing numbers from the brasswork that I would call out a bad design or at least a stock design with provisions. The last numbers seem favorable.



I agree the tenacity is a very admiral thing.
 
Tinker said:
In no way you are a bad guy. Maybe perceived. But not.
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Thanks Tinker, I'm just trying to perform problem solving one step at a time. I know in the back of my head what the end result of each test will be, but I still need to rule out each step along the way!
 
Well, I found the clunking yesterday. I started by draining the Ford 9" rear to check for metal. I had installed a drain plug in the bottom to change the gear oil to make things a little easier. The oil was slightly metallic. I put a magnet inside the drain to check around the bottom of the rear and didn't find anything. I pulled the wheels and drums to check the brakes and all looked fine. I pulled the axles and then found my clunking. The drivers side bearing was destroyed. I went to the local AutoZone for a new sealed bearing part # RW-207-CCRA bearing.
The car is back up and driving without the clunking! Now back to the cooling issue!
 
jrvariel48 said:
Oh yeah it does!
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Question: Was your housing shortened and/or modified from its original form with new spring hangers, shock mounts, bearing ends, trailing arms, etc? The reason I ask is that it is common for folks to take a stock/straight housing and then weld all sorts of brackets to it (with a lot of welds on one side of the axle housing), then just go ahead and run it. What they don't realize is that the housing is warped and the bearings are not running true to the centerline of the axle - so now they are under a lot of stress that shouldn't be there - and they ultimately fail.

There are multiple ways to prevent/fix this - don't have the space to go into them here, but here are a few things to think about.

One thing to note is that usually you'll cut off the original bearing flanges when you shorten the rear. Then, if you're going to be welding on spring hangers, shock brackets, trailing arm brackets, etc.. - you do ALL of that BEFORE you weld the bearing ends back on. Then you straighten the housing (if it needs it - as it probably does), then you use a big-ole alignment bar to jig up the outer ends (with the pumpkin in - and bearing 'pucks' in place) - to ensure that everything is running off the same centerline --- then you weld the ends back on.

When everything is correctly done, the outer axle bearings should last for just about forever . . . if not, then you have issues.

Okay, enough coffee in me this AM, time to get back out in the shop! Working on some custom shock mounts for a vintage 32 hotrod roadster. Maybe I'll post some pics later . . .

B&S
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Question: Was your housing shortened and/or modified from its original form with new spring hangers, shock mounts, bearing ends, trailing arms, etc? The reason I ask is that it is common for folks to take a stock/straight housing and then weld all sorts of brackets to it (with a lot of welds on one side of the axle housing), then just go ahead and run it. What they don't realize is that the housing is warped and the bearings are not running true to the centerline of the axle - so now they are under a lot of stress that shouldn't be there - and they ultimately fail.

There are multiple ways to prevent/fix this - don't have the space to go into them here, but here are a few things to think about.

One thing to note is that usually you'll cut off the original bearing flanges when you shorten the rear. Then, if you're going to be welding on spring hangers, shock brackets, trailing arm brackets, etc.. - you do ALL of that BEFORE you weld the bearing ends back on. Then you straighten the housing (if it needs it - as it probably does), then you use a big-ole alignment bar to jig up the outer ends (with the pumpkin in - and bearing 'pucks' in place) - to ensure that everything is running off the same centerline --- then you weld the ends back on.

When everything is correctly done, the outer axle bearings should last for just about forever . . . if not, then you have issues.

Okay, enough coffee in me this AM, time to get back out in the shop! Working on some custom shock mounts for a vintage 32 hotrod roadster. Maybe I'll post some pics later . . .

B&S
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B&S This is a 1969 Bronco small bearing rear I got from a friend. The original spring perches and shock mounts were cut off and ground smooth.
It was not shortened or centered which I found to be a problem. After it was installed in the car and the spring perches installed everything was fine with the exception of the U-joint hitting the corner of the driveshaft tunnel whenever I hit a big bump in the road. Not good.
Then Gosfast, (Gary Sharkey R.I.P.) built me a blown motor. We did crank straps on all three mains. This meant we had to modify the oil pan.
When I installed the motor, I had to make custom mounts to keep the oil panel from hitting the front cross member. It put the motor angle higher than it was originally. When I finally started to drive the car at higher speeds, I noticed a driveline vibration. I was going to try angled spring perch shims to correct the driveline angle, but that would have put the pinion nose even closer to the driveshaft tunnel causing more interference. I decided to have a custom rear fabbed up by a gent in south Jersey that does Ford 8 & 9" rears. My original rear has seen better days and I figured it was a good time to do this. I was planning on installing it this winter. The only thing I need to do is set the pinion and weld on the spring perches. I'm not too concerned with any warpage because he uses a very thick tube for the rear and he told me it would not be a problem.
The shock mounts are part of the leaf spring plate, but I have to say I'm not entirely happy with that because I don't have much shock travel. Needles to say I may change that also. I also had him make 31 spline axles as I noticed my 28 spline axles were beginning to get a little chewed up at the splines. I would love to see some pics of the 32 shock mount!!
Thanks Joe
 
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