Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

Rich b, I think a lot of people are missing the objective here. You are not, It's not about the ebay rad. It was established from the beginning and the reason he wanted to change it. it's making an original looking "version" work. It might not be this version that works. But it brings visions' of flatheads with 1 wire alternators with the ebay version. Fluid volume is apt and a good question.


200 for what you have might be the operating temp. High but not that high. 220, shut her down.
 
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40cpe said:
Just curious, but I wonder if the blower could be adding a little air to the engine to reduce your vacuum at cruise. My 276" naturally aspirated runs 17" at cruise. It has a 278 degree cam (L100).
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The lower vacuum while cruising shouldn't be a problem with the over temperature. My blown 8ba behaves the same way. 20" at idle, 10" at cruise. Runs 180 while going down the road on 90 degree days. Too long at idle and it climbs to 200.
 
Tinker said:
Rich b, I think a lot of people are missing the objective here. You are not, It's not about the ebay rad. It was established from the beginning and the reason he wanted to change it. it's making an original looking "version" work. It might not be this version that works. But it brings visions' of flatheads with 1 wire alternators with the ebay version. Fluid volume is apt and a good question.


200 for what you have might be the operating temp. High but not that high. 220, shut her down.
Click to expand...


With all the changes. It would be interesting to see if the POS aluminum one cures the problems with all the mods done.
I think he has exhausted all his options.
 
With a blower, you'll not see boost unless you throw a lot of AIR at the rotors - which means the throttle plates are probably fully open. With smaller carbs, it is difficult to get enough air into the blower - so they become one limiting factor.

In a cruise situation you'll usually see more vacuum above the rotors than in a NA engine, due do the air being pulled in by the blower. Total timing and the curve are super important, and your total amount is dependent on a lot of factors. (Total effective compression ratio, cam timing, fuel type, AFRs, combustion chamber, engine temps, etc.). One has to ensure that detonation doesn't show up under boost - or you can ruin an engine in a hurry.

Having a boost referenced timing control isn't a bad thing in that it allows you to run more timing while not under boost (which is the majority of the time). Just make darn sure it is working! Pulling timing out usually requires an electronic ignition of some sort - and there are a lot of good products out there.
 
Here is a picture of what roots type supercharger rotors look like. There are 'High-Helix' designs for 14-71 competition blowers. I recently completed these designs and CNC code - to be made on a HAAS VF5S milling machine with a live 4th axis.

Here is one in the machine (just before taking it out). It takes about 5 1/2 hours per rotor to machine these:

rotor1.jpg

Here is what it goes inside of:

HurricaneForceBlower.jpg

Wait until you see the new blower design I've almost completed - the case will be whacked out of a single pre-heat-treated chunk of aluminum. I can't show it off as of yet. :rolleyes:
 
Tinker said:
Rich b, I think a lot of people are missing the objective here. You are not, It's not about the ebay rad. It was established from the beginning and the reason he wanted to change it. it's making an original looking "version" work. It might not be this version that works. But it brings visions' of flatheads with 1 wire alternators with the ebay version. Fluid volume is apt and a good question.


200 for what you have might be the operating temp. High but not that high. 220, shut her down.
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That may be Tinker. I have to try a couple of things before the radiator change
 
solidaxle said:
With all the changes. It would be interesting to see if the POS aluminum one cures the problems with all the mods done.
I think he has exhausted all his options.
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I certainly hope so. If not, I don't know what to try>
This whole thing is exhausting!!
 
Bored&Stroked said:
With a blower, you'll not see boost unless you throw a lot of AIR at the rotors - which means the throttle plates are probably fully open. With smaller carbs, it is difficult to get enough air into the blower - so they become one limiting factor.

In a cruise situation you'll usually see more vacuum above the rotors than in a NA engine, due do the air being pulled in by the blower. Total timing and the curve are super important, and your total amount is dependent on a lot of factors. (Total effective compression ratio, cam timing, fuel type, AFRs, combustion chamber, engine temps, etc.). One has to ensure that detonation doesn't show up under boost - or you can ruin an engine in a hurry.

Having a boost referenced timing control isn't a bad thing in that it allows you to run more timing while not under boost (which is the majority of the time). Just make darn sure it is working! Pulling timing out usually requires an electronic ignition of some sort - and there are a lot of good products out there.
Click to expand...

I thought about putting in a BTM. I'm really not too concerned with gas mileage so bumping up my total timing is low on the list. I'll stay on the safe side with 21* total
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Here is a picture of what roots type supercharger rotors look like. There are 'High-Helix' designs for 14-71 competition blowers. I recently completed these designs and CNC code - to be made on a HAAS VF5S milling machine with a live 4th axis.

Here is one in the machine (just before taking it out). It takes about 5 1/2 hours per rotor to machine these:

View attachment 496241

Here is what it goes inside of:

View attachment 496242

Wait until you see the new blower design I've almost completed - the case will be whacked out of a single pre-heat-treated chunk of aluminum. I can't show it off as of yet. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

VERY impressive! I had no idea you were that involved in design and machining!
 
I took the car out again today to double check the larger overflow tank. Outside temp was 90 degrees with 54% humidity
It idled in the drive way for about 10 minutes at 170*. I drove it out to the high way and it was still at 170*. Mashed the throttle pulling 6lbs. of boost and through the gears I went, up to 70 mph. Pulled back to 65 for about 5 minutes and the temp went right up to 205*
Pulled off the high way to make a U-turn and head home and the temp dropped to 200* and fluctuated between 190-205*. Bottom line, the larger overflow tank didn't help.
Next step is the RMI-25. I'd like to give that a couple of hours of driving time at the least to give it a fair chance.
Again, the 205* sucks and I don't like it, but it was also 90* outside and I don't drive my car in that temperature. If my Sunday morning drives go up to 200* for now, I'll live with it until I change the radiator back. Patience
 
solidaxle said:
With all the changes. It would be interesting to see if the POS aluminum one cures the problems with all the mods done.
I think he has exhausted all his options.
Click to expand...


There is no question the "p.o.s" aluminum version worked. It's the fact that it doesn't look right that is the issue. Not the performance. Somewhere there is solution. Probably involves time and money.


Too recap: First paragraph, first post....

"I've been trying to cool my car down a little for the past couple of months. When it's 50-60 degrees outside it's not a concern, but as we get into summer here in Jersey things really heat up. It seems that after I installed the radiator the problems started. I had a cheap Ebay aluminum P.O.S. it there last summer and I had no problems"


With everything going on... 200 isn't the end of the world or a bit issue.



What was it running before with the p.o.s rad?
 
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Tinker said:
There is no question the "p.o.s" aluminum version worked. It's the fact that it doesn't look right that is the issue. Not the performance. Somewhere there is solution. Probably involves time and money.


Too recap: First paragraph, first post....

"I've been trying to cool my car down a little for the past couple of months. When it's 50-60 degrees outside it's not a concern, but as we get into summer here in Jersey things really heat up. It seems that after I installed the radiator the problems started. I had a cheap Ebay aluminum P.O.S. it there last summer and I had no problems"


With everything going on... 200 isn't the end of the world or a bit issue.



What was it running before with the p.o.s rad?
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I was running the original radiator. It was repaired so many times it looked like Frankenstein! I also wanted to run a pressurized system
 
So what did the ebay radiator run?


You based your disappointment of Brassworks on the fact the ebay rad worked flawless. The brassworks seems like it keeps you at 200?


Recore in the works?
 
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Tinker said:
So what did the ebay radiator run?


You based your disappointment of Brassworks on the fact the ebay rad worked flawless. The brassworks seems like it keeps you at 200?


Recore in the works?
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Ebay radiator ran at 190 at it's highest. Yes Brassworks is up to205, but to be fair I'm running the car at temps I wouldn't normally drive in. The Brassworks radiator will run up to 205 even when it was 73 degrees outside. When it was that cool with the ebay radiator, I didn't need to turn on the fan. The fan on the ebay rad was a pusher mounted in the middle of the core
 
190 is great. Also ran a pusher fan too. But you hated how it looks.

Guessing you are running a electric fan on the brass rad. Maybe it needs to be turned on earlier.

Seems like the brassworks is working but you need to fine tune your system? asking?
 
Tinker said:
190 is great. Also ran a pusher fan too. But you hated how it looks.

Guessing you are running a electric fan on the brass rad. Maybe it needs to be turned on earlier.

Seems like the brassworks is working but you need to fine tune your system? asking?
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Tinker I'm running a puller fan on the Brassworks radiator mounted as high as it can go under the top tank. On the hottest days of testing, lets say 85 degrees and above, I turn the fan on right after I start the car. It only takes about 5 minutes for the motor to reach 170 degrees. I think my system is pretty fine tuned, but that may not be true. I know my timing and A/F ratios are in a great spot, but that's about it.
I still have some things to try before I change back to the ebay radiator. I'll pull the water pumps to take a look at the impellers to make sure everything is ok with them.
I ordered a set of Bob Shewman T-stats and when they arrive I will install them. I plan on taking a ride this morning. The temperature is 63 degrees right now, but I probably won't get the car out until it's closer to 70 degrees. I will report back later today to update the condition
Thanks Joe
 
I read this whole thread a few days ago but didn't notice if you removed the fan and tried cruising without any fan and shroud. Did you try this recognizing that it is real easy for me to suggest it but but not so easy physically :-)

Glenn
 
glennpm said:
I read this whole thread a few days ago but didn't notice if you removed the fan and tried cruising without any fan and shroud. Did you try this recognizing that it is real easy for me to suggest it but but not so easy physically :-)

Glenn
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Glenn I remove the CCI fan with shroud a few weeks ago and installed a
Flex-x-lite puller fan.
I never drove the car without any fan in fear of boiling over.
After all the testing I've done I don't think it'll make a noticeable difference. I've driven the car from 40-65 mph with the fan off and see no temperature change on a hot day Thanks Joe
 
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