Engine Steady Rods

1stford

1stford

Senior Member
I’m doing a bit of research I’ve learned that my 36 truck would have had engine steady rods connecting the bell housing to the frame to keep it from moving. I have an 8BA in the 36 and understand those original 36 rods may not fit. Anyone have brackets that would support that and take the place of the steady rods? Maybe a templet for making my own and where to connect that?

Thanks.
 
Without the torque tube pushing forward the stay rods were eliminated when they went to the open driveline. With all the 8ba engines in 48 and earlier cars I am sure someone will have a template. Probably somebody made them commercially back in the day.
 

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Are they something like these?
 

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Merc Cruzer said:
Are they something like these?
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I believe those are the rods, or something like what I need. The engine is in the truck and I’m not interested in pulling it out. It appears that I don’t have any holes there, that don’t already have a bolt in them, that I can push a rod through.
 
That was an engine I picked up, real cheap, to tear apart and then reassemble, basically to learn on, before I bought my 53' Merc.
 
tubman said:
These look good to me.
Click to expand...

When I 1st looked at these this morning it appeared that they would not work because I don't have a hole to put them through. After looking again it appears there is a bracket with the rods that bolt on to create that hole. If that's the case then that would be perfect!

Thank you everyone.
 
1st ford:

To install anti chatter rods on the 8BA in my 40 Ford I welded ears with bolt holes onto the steel bell housing. Then, made rods top fit. Be sure to make sure that your clutch and brake pedal don't interfere with the steady rods after installing. Use double nuts and flat washers, not lock washers. "Tack weld" the ears for a trial fit. The ears are 1 inch thick square steel. You can use the OEM steady rods if you modify them.
 

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This is a great thread with some really wonderful information AND pictures, not to mention the links to MORE info. And I'm NOT here to bring an 'off topic' into this thread, but one of the pictures above in post #5 IMMEDIATELY made me think of a picture that many of you have seen me post in the past of what CAN happen when hanging an early ('32-'48) block on an engine stand in the conventional manner......by the extended BELLHOUSING. That bell casting is quite thin, and susceptible to cracking and dropping your "NOW-junk" flathead to the floor. By comparing these two pictures, you can now see exactly how the RED engine was bolted to the stand, using the two upper, center bolt holes. That is exactly where it cracked....just barely outside the hole on the driver side of casting. This should serve to at least suggest that my first picture of the RED engine is not a fake break, resulting from some other mishap. DD

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WOW! Thanks V8 for posting that broken bell housing photo.
Kind of sticks in your mind once you see it.
 
The brackets like BobC posted should be fairly easy to fab or have fab'ed. They do not mount flush to the block. The ones Bob posted used different size spacers, the mounts themselves can also be machined to fit (like the ones posted).

Also, the photos of the mounts with the spacers have a modified steady rod, it threaded further down the rod and a nut used in place of the forged flare on the originals. My guess would be they ground or machined the flare off of the steady rods and then extended the threads. That would make the length of the steady rod from the frame mount to the mount easier to deal with.
 

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V8COOPMAN said:
.

This is a great thread with some really wonderful information AND pictures, not to mention the links to MORE info. And I'm NOT here to bring an 'off topic' into this thread, but one of the pictures above in post #5 IMMEDIATELY made me think of a picture that many of you have seen me post in the past of what CAN happen when hanging an early ('32-'48) block on an engine stand in the conventional manner......by the extended BELLHOUSING. That bell casting is quite thin, and susceptible to cracking and dropping your "NOW-junk" flathead to the floor. By comparing these two pictures, you can now see exactly how the RED engine was bolted to the stand, using the two upper, center bolt holes. That is exactly where it cracked....just barely outside the hole on the driver side of casting. This should serve to at least suggest that my first picture of the RED engine is not a fake break, resulting from some other mishap. DD

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I always put a 2X4 under the front, behind the pulley. Maybe not the best, but I do acknowledge the risk of not supporting the front of the engine on a stand. Good reminder though.
 

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Thanks again to everyone that chimed in. I’ve talked to Mark and he is sending me some brackets and someone here on the barn offered to give me a set of rods so I’m in great shape!
 
The "steady rods" were originally intended to reduce the usual Ford clutch "chatter. They were dropped from production, as they had little effect. Some of the outlets at the time, such as "Western Auto", sold kits for that purpose but, they too, were of little value. The torque tube design, dating from the Model T days, was the culprit.
 
I don't think anyone has mentioned rumbleseat here... Paul, in his tech info, I believe addressed all of this with his home-brew fabrication of 'steady-rods'. This info might be of interest to someone?
 
Is this the one you're referring to Bob?

ENGINE STAY-RODS: These were used up through the ‘48 engines. They certainly
help control clutch chatter. Run ‘em if you’ve got ‘em.
CLUTCH CHATTER ELIMINATORS: These came out in the forties and were after
market items. They really work on ‘33 thru ‘48 cars with their center X frame.
And are simple to construct and install. The design uses a “V”, a long bolt
threaded on both ends, 4 old pin type shock absorber bushings with washers, two
nuts for the long bolt, and a stout “S” shaped hook. I didn’t include dimensions
since you can determine them for your particular car. The following should help
you with your design. Pictures are currently shown on the Flathead Techno Site.
The front pieces to form the “V” are made from a two lengths of 3/8" X 1" flat
stock. The two pieces have to be long enough to reach from the lower two trans
bolts to about the middle of the trans. You’ll need heat to bend things unless
your fingernails are rough from dragging on the asphalt as you walk! Bend both
ends of each of the two pieces 90 degrees and drill holes in both bends. The two
at the trans should be 3/8" diameter for the trans bolts to go through. Both
rear holes need to be the same diameter as the long rod. Attach the two pieces
to the lower two bolts of the trans without using bushings. Bend the 2 pieces so
the remaining two ends have their 90 degree bends overlap and their holes line
up.
The long rod with both ends threaded back a good inch or so has to be long
enough to go from the intersection of the two pieces you just installed to the
trans and extend to near the front of the X center cross member (6" or so). Put
a bushing and washer on each side of the rod that goes through both pieces from
the trans and hold these together with a nut. The other end of the rod will get
bushings and washers on each side of the “S” shaped hook.
Use a piece of 3/8" flat stock and bend in an elongated “S”. Hook one end in
the rear of the center X frame member. The S goes from the rear of the X member
towards the front of the car. Drill a hole in the other end of the S for the
long rod to go through. Install the rod through the hole in the S hook.
Hook everything up and tighten the nuts quite a bit on each end of the
long rod. This will virtually eliminate nearly all, if not all, clutch
chatter. If you have problem understanding this after going over it while
under your car, please e-mail me and I’ll see if I can help.
 
That sounds like the info. I seem to remember there was a sketch with the info.
But.... don't trust my memory.
 
He referenced photo(s) on a site that I believe no longer exist. I think I have a photo of something similar if anyone is interested. I would prefer the add-on mounts and the semi stock steady rod myself.
 
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