Engine start-up oil

Whatever brand/type of oil you use, I would recommend either an oil with zinc(Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs) or a zinc additive (Lucas) to protect the cam and flat tappets. There is some discussion as to the pros and cons but personally I wouldn't/won't take a chance. Newer oils are formulated for newer engines. I have a '81 Ford 302 with flat tappets in my '41 Ford and I'll spend the $15 every 3000 mi on additive and not take the chance on damage and I run Mobil 1 oil.
 
Use a good quality multi-grade detergent dinosouar oil, not a synthetic. (Synthetic will prevent the rings from seating.) Change oil and filter if you have one at first 500 miles of easy driving, not idling in the driveway. You'll burn a little oil, may need to top it off, that's normal before the rings seat. After the oil change, go for another 1000 miles on the same type oil, should be cleaner with better oil pressure. Then decide if you want synthetic oil from that point forward. Zinc additives certainly won't harm your engine, but unless you have a non-stock valve train, or did not install hardened valve seats, the additive will not be required.
 
I wouldn't have thought the valve seat material makes a difference 're zinc in the oil. You shouldn't have oil on the valve seats, cam followers/lifters yes, but not seats.
Martin.
 
Scooder is correct; it is the lead in your gas , not the zinc in your oil that affects the
valve seats.
 
Run initially with Valvoline Racing Oil 10-30. Change oil after about 100-150 miles. Perform several ring seating maneuvers which amount to full throttle acceleration-coast events. Do no idle at low RPM and do not overheat. Examine drained oil and filter(if you have filter) for telltale debris.
 
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