Engine Stand

DD931

DD931

Well-known member
I'm getting ready to pull my engine and I want to be sure that I have my engine stand properly set up. What do folks use as an adapter to hold the engine on the stand. Must be able to pull head and pan while it's on the stand. Pictures would be great!! Thanks!!
 
Get the engine stand adapter sold my Snyder's or any of the other Model A supply houses. It bolts in place of the water inlet on the side of the block. It's the best in my opinion.
 
nabbess1930 said:
Get the engine stand adapter sold my Snyder's or any of the other Model A supply houses. It bolts in place of the water inlet on the side of the block. It's the best in my opinion.
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+1.

For a "running" stand you'll need something else - possibly the frame of your Model A.

Joe K
 
Joe K said:
+1.

For a "running" stand you'll need something else - possibly the frame of your Model A.

Joe K
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I made one from a junk model A frame that I had . i I cut the frame in two , just behind the center crossmember and installed legs . I can use this stand to test run an engine or use it to bolt fenders on when welding up cracks and straightening . It comes in very handy , especially with fender work . I would never cut up a good frame for this purpose !!! The frame that I used was already rusted in two on one side and rusted worse that I would want to use on any of my cars on the other side . I have one of the modern style engine stands that I use when doing engine overhauls .
 
I used a Harbor Freight engine stand, straight out of the box, no mods or adapters needed. Works good, can flip the engine upside down easily.
 
This handy little adapter made by Bill Stipe and available from most of the vendors adapts to most any engine stand.
 

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Don't try to leave the flywheel and f/w housing on and mount to the housing in the conventional way. You can remove these and grab the back of the block but most all prefer the side mount way and that's how the original stands worked.
 
100IH - Yes, Thanks! I get it! V8 folks have the same issue. That's why I asked the question - I just didn't know how to do the side mount. With the side mount I should be able to leave clutch and flywheel on - right? I would leave the flywheel housing still assembled in the car waiting to receive the engine when replaced.
 
With the side-mount the engine will be SERIOUSLY overweighted with the flywheel on.

You can do it - but there may be no "mechanical advantage" for rotating the engine, other than the bar they give you with the original engine dolly, which your particular "adapter" may or may not be drilled for. You may find you fight it all the way around doing the "flip" even without a flywheel.

I made my own side plate. This is possible since my particular engine dolly is based on a 2" pipe rotating part. I drilled holes at 90 degree intervals (4 holes) for a locking pin but so far have used only two of the four holes since one rarely needs flywheel or timing gear "up." Looking to get it in service FAST I didn't create a means to "bar" the engine in the flip - but later (and wisely) added them to use the original "turn bar" for this.

If you remove the flywheel, be sure to "mark" the orientation of the flywheel relative to the crank flange. Many rebuilders balance the crank, and the flywheel can be a big part of this so you want to maintain that orientation.

Joe K
 
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eagle said:
I used a Harbor Freight engine stand, straight out of the box, no mods or adapters needed. Works good, can flip the engine upside down easily.
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I’m buying the HF Engine Stand. Do you bolt it to the rear of the engine using the holes for the bell housing?

David Serrano
 
I've got a Harbor freight engine stand and it can be connected to the rear of the engine . I use the engine stand adapter pictured in post number 6 that connects to the side water inlet . It works well and the engine can easily turned upside down .
 
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I use a Stipe type engine stand bracket, and I have a B engine with a Miller head. I am concerned that the weight of this engine (I want to avoid pulling the head) will be too heavy for this engine stand. I have visions of breaking off the pan flange. I need to redo the Burtz seal I have on the rear of the crankshaft, and I want to disassemble as little of the engine as possible. I think I need to polish the area where the slinger was a lot better or at least make sure that the drain back tube has nothing blocking the flow. Am I too squeamish about doing damage to the engine? I have over 10K in this engine, but the leak is really bothering me.
 
midgetracer said:
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I use a Stipe type engine stand bracket, and I have a B engine with a Miller head. I am concerned that the weight of this engine (I want to avoid pulling the head) will be too heavy for this engine stand. I have visions of breaking off the pan flange. I need to redo the Burtz seal I have on the rear of the crankshaft, and I want to disassemble as little of the engine as possible. I think I need to polish the area where the slinger was a lot better or at least make sure that the drain back tube has nothing blocking the flow. Am I too squeamish about doing damage to the engine? I have over 10K in this engine, but the leak is really bothering me.
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I've never had a problem using the side mount adaptor and HF engine stand. I assemble the complete engine and flywheel with it.
 
I put a worm drive gear reducer on my engine stand to make it easier for my bad back:
 

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