Engine stand

TDS

TDS

Member
Hi
I got myself an engine stand like the photo.
Is there any enigine block issue using this on a 1935 21 bolt flathead.
Im planning to bolt it on the gearbox end.
Maybe the timing cover end.

Most of the flathead stands ive seen supports the engine block in both ends?.

Thanks..:)
 

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I have read many posts here and on other Forums cautioning folks about bolting their flathead engines to an engine stand using the integral cast bell housing. An attachment that will allow bolting the engine at the exhaust ports is claimed to be better.
A stand that bolts to the front and rear of engine could prevent removal of some components during a rebuild.
 
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I've seen broken bell housings where they've been bolted on that style stand using the bell.
Use the exhaust mounting type, it won't fail.
Martin.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
You would think! This one should convince even the "experts". DD

th
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A friend of mine, Geoff, had this happen to him as well. Against my advice,he used this type of stand and well, an otherwise good '40 block went to the trash heap.
 
It is very easy to make (or have made) and exhaust mount. You can use a tube that matches your existing stand or make a flat plate adapter. The angle is 45 deg, an exhaust gasket or manifold will give you the bolt pattern.
 

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V8COOPMAN said:
Hard to convince most know-it-alls! DD

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I think I'm going to be SICK after seeing that! And my guess - was using a wrench or breaker-bar to turn it over from the front of the crank. Nice way to apply even more pressure to that thinly cast bell in the back!

AND - that engine had a LOT of expensive stuff in it . . . and was probably ported/relieved as well. Yikes!

D
 
V8coopman--need to drill a hole for the stop otherwise you will not be able to position the block
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I think I'm going to be SICK after seeing that! And my guess - was using a wrench or breaker-bar to turn it over from the front of the crank. Nice way to apply even more pressure to that thinly cast bell in the back!

AND - that engine had a LOT of expensive stuff in it . . . and was probably ported/relieved as well. Yikes!

D
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Dale,
That there engine was indeed a "high end build" Navarro high dome head/piston combination, Big valves, Big crank, extensive port work, you get the idea. Absolutely no wrenching turning it over with it on that stand. He bolted it on the stand, went indoors for something, came back out, engine on the floor with the bolt holes in the bell pulled out and still bolted to the stand.
Damn thing had only been hung on the stand for a short time. As I said, no wrenching on it whilst hung, except pulling the pan.'
Martin
 
scooder said:
Dale,
That there engine was indeed a "high end build" Navarro high dome head/piston combination, Big valves, Big crank, extensive port work, you get the idea. Absolutely no wrenching turning it over with it on that stand. He bolted it on the stand, went indoors for something, came back out, engine on the floor with the bolt holes in the bell pulled out and still bolted to the stand.
Damn thing had only been hung on the stand for a short time. As I said, no wrenching on it whilst hung, except pulling the pan.'
Martin
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Man - talk about walking out and not believing what you're seeing when you come back. I'm sure all sorts of strange thoughts went through his head. I've been using side-mount adapters for a long time (especially once I start to put an engine together).

I will sometimes hang a bare block on the other type stand - especially during porting operations as I need to be able to turn it all those funny angles. Once I start to put it together (when all the weight gets added), then I only use the side-mount adapters.

Also, the side-mount adapters make it really easy to setup the flywheel, clutch and even test the transmission fitment. I just flip it up and make sure all that crap works as planned.
 
I can see there is only 4 bolt holes in the adapter - thats 2 exhaust ports.
I going to have one made - any reson to aim for all 6 boltholes to get more strengh?
 
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