Dan Ulberg
Junior Member
Does someone have plans for the engine stand adapter for the regular engine stand? I have seen them in the parts catologes, but would like to build one. Give me a call 940-389-7057.
Engine Stand Plans
- Thread starter Dan Ulberg
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Dan, all you are doing is anchoring to the water inlet bolt holes,...and steadying the assembly by using the upper side of the pan rail. Since I do not know what your fabrication skills are, --or what you have available for equipment, all I can do is suggest that you ether make a plate or use some structural steel and drill holes using the water inlet neck as the template. Then after you have it drilled & mounted onto the block, see if you can determine the 'cg' and weld your tubing for the stand onto that. Finally, devise a way to mount a stiff arm going down to the pan rail to steady it.
Hope that helps....
.
Hope that helps....
.
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
There was a good thread on this a few months ago. Try Search to see it. I cut up and drilled some angle iron to mimic the $85 bracket that I bolt to the engine stand.
Craig Lewis
Well-known member
I made this one from scrap bits and pieces. It ain't pretty, but does the job 
1) The top plate should be at least 3/16...use what you got and weld on a pipe to fit your stand. The pipe location should be at a centre of gravity as Brent mentioned (for ease of spinning it about) although this spec is ever changing as you add components.
2) Drill holes and bolt to water inlet.
3) Make the bottom feet from a couple pieces of angle iron. Drill holes in these feet & bolt them down into the pan flange from OUTSIDE...so the pan can still be installed. (use the existing 5/16 threaded block holes)
4) Your arms can be anything...square or round stock, heck old chair legs would do. I used some rectangular steel that was laying around.
5) Bolt everything snuggly to the block & weld it together "on the engine" to hold perfect alignment.
**In operation I tighten the water inlet and pan bolts first, and finally the 2 side screws which thread into the 1" angle feet. You may want to elongate the holes where these side bolts pass through to allow a little "wiggle room" between different blocks.
I hope this makes some sense & I'll answer any questions you have.
Good luck
1) The top plate should be at least 3/16...use what you got and weld on a pipe to fit your stand. The pipe location should be at a centre of gravity as Brent mentioned (for ease of spinning it about) although this spec is ever changing as you add components.
2) Drill holes and bolt to water inlet.
3) Make the bottom feet from a couple pieces of angle iron. Drill holes in these feet & bolt them down into the pan flange from OUTSIDE...so the pan can still be installed. (use the existing 5/16 threaded block holes)
4) Your arms can be anything...square or round stock, heck old chair legs would do. I used some rectangular steel that was laying around.
5) Bolt everything snuggly to the block & weld it together "on the engine" to hold perfect alignment.
**In operation I tighten the water inlet and pan bolts first, and finally the 2 side screws which thread into the 1" angle feet. You may want to elongate the holes where these side bolts pass through to allow a little "wiggle room" between different blocks.
I hope this makes some sense & I'll answer any questions you have.
Good luck
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MN Stumpjumper
Senior Member
I like the looks of that, good job!
Dan Ulberg
Junior Member
Thanks for all the input, I like Craigs also.
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
This is the thread I was referring to.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13234&highlight=engine+stand
Some other ideas, Dave's toward the end is good.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13234&highlight=engine+stand
Some other ideas, Dave's toward the end is good.
bogdonj
Well-known member
Just mounted our original engine on this stand from the bell housing, supported all the way around. Holds over 1000lbs.
****** Mine is only mounted to hold it for show and not to add weight or turn the engine around to be worked on. If you are working on your engine I would suggest to anchor it to the block to be 100% safe!
Holds over 1000lbs.****** Mine is only mounted to hold it for show and not to add weight or turn the engine around to be worked on. If you are working on your engine I would suggest to anchor it to the block to be 100% safe!
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d.j. moordigian
Well-known member
bogdonj,
Sir, that flywheel housing wasn't meant to handle that much weight in that manor,
that will break the housing. You mite want to rethink your set-up. I mount my A's
from the back with plates I made, I use the top 2 holes and the 2 on the bottom
( 1 on each side PLUS the pins), works good.
Dudley
Sir, that flywheel housing wasn't meant to handle that much weight in that manor,
that will break the housing. You mite want to rethink your set-up. I mount my A's
from the back with plates I made, I use the top 2 holes and the 2 on the bottom
( 1 on each side PLUS the pins), works good.
Dudley
bogdonj
Well-known member
It's been like that for awhile now and hasn't cracked. The engine is a boat anchor anyways due to a cracked block. They are bigger bolts holding it and its screwed to the engine block by 5 bolts. Thanks for the advice though!
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Since I made this and took these pictures I have since notched the bottom of the water outlet mount so I can get the wrench by it to remove the center main nut. I also cut the bottom 2 corners at 45*. I'll have to take a new picture to show how it looks now.
Cut the pieces, then mount the two small pieces of flat bar to the top of the engine block oil pan lip and mount the heavy flat stock to the water outlet. Weld the round tube to the water outlet so the top edge of the tube will be 2 3/16" down from the top of the heavy plate. The two mounting holes are 1 3/16" down from the top of the heavy plate, and 2 3/8" apart.
The holes in the small plates will have to be close to the edge so the plate will mount to the top side. About 5/16" in from the edge will do it.
Cut or grind the angles in the ends of the square tubing to fit from the plate to the round pipe, then tack them in a few places on each of the 4 ends. Then finish welding them all around, but watch the order of the welds so as they cool they don't pull the plates out of position. The welding will most likely tweek the bottom two plates a little so you may have to file the holes to one side a bit.
Having the 2 small plates mount to the top side of the lip allows you to install the oil pan while it's still on the stand.
Heavy plate 4" x 4" x 1/2" thick
Small plates 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4"
Round pipe 2 3/8" x 10" by 1/8" wall thickness. My pipe is 12 1/2" long but 10" is enough.
Square tubing 1" x 1" x 5 1/2" long and the other piece is 4 1/2" long
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Crazydaddyo
Senior Member
I prefer to use the side mount. It allows you to do all of the work on the engine including mounting and indicating the flywheel and flywheel housing with out taking it off of the stand.
Here is one I made that was originally made for a A block, but I found I could use it on the T too.
If you shorten up the plate that bolts to the water inlet, and weld the main tube as close to the two bots as you can, it leaves enough room underneath it to get a wrench on the center main bolts so that you can torque those too.
Here is one I made that was originally made for a A block, but I found I could use it on the T too.
If you shorten up the plate that bolts to the water inlet, and weld the main tube as close to the two bots as you can, it leaves enough room underneath it to get a wrench on the center main bolts so that you can torque those too.