Engine stand adapters - Model A > modern stands

Special Coupe Frank

Special Coupe Frank

Well-known member
It looks like I'm going to be tearing-down a few recently-acquired Model A engines, and I (think) I would like to be able to put them up on my engine stand (Harbor Freight "rear-mount" - has successfully held a 1960 Chrysler big-block).

I noticed that Bratton and Snyder both sell an engine-stand adapter that attaches to the water outlet and the oil-pan flange.

Anybody have any experience with these adapters ?

How about just mounting the block to the bell housing circle ?

SC Frank
 
I have the kind of adapter that bolts to the water inlet and oil pan bolt holes. I can't remember where I bought it, but it looks like PN 08041 in Bratton's catalog. When I build up an engine, I mount the engine to the rear of the block with the four regular adapter pieces that came with the engine stand. I had to use some 1/2" pipe nipples and long bolts to make the adapter pieces work - but no big deal. Once the engine is ready for the flywheel adapter and flywheel, I use the side mount adapter to hold the engine. It works fine that way. I did have a problem where the side mount adapter was about .030 to small to fit into my three point engine stand. I had to have machine shop turn it down. I don't know whether the adapter pipe was too big or the engine stand round part was to small. It is important to be able to rotate the engine on its nose (front down) so the flywheel adapter and then the flywheel itself can be aligned properly.
Rusty Nelson
 
SC Frank here is some info for you. I also have just the standard old Harbor Freight stand-I think it is the 2000 lb one. I just use an angle iron on the flang above where the oil pan bolts to and bolted the arms (that came with it) of the stand to the angle iron. You can see what I did in the pictures. If you have questions, just PM me.
 

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Fred K-OR said:
SC Frank here is some info for you. I also have just the standard old Harbor Freight stand-I think it is the 2000 lb one. I just use an angle iron on the flang above where the oil pan bolts to and bolted the arms (that came with it) of the stand to the angle iron. You can see what I did in the pictures. If you have questions, just PM me.
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Are you able to remove and replace the oil pan with that arrangement?
 
I have used the adapter sold by brattons and others for years. In General, I like it. Its is stable, quick and easy to use, and I feel holding the block close to the stand is more stable than extending it outward from the rear. However, nothing is perfect, and trying to torque up the drivers side center main nut is difficult with this adapter, though not impossible. I hold the nut in a box wrench and use the torque wrench on the square head of the bolt. Installing the cotter pin is not possible until the adapter is off the block. You will have to install 2 of the pan bolts after the adapter is off too.
 
I just finished using my side-mount (I'm not sure who I got it from-I try to spread my business around). I had my doubts that it was strong enough, but it worked well, allowing me to rotate the engine however I needed it. I built up the entire engine on the stand,including the transmission, but for peace of mind, I put a jackstand under the trans. until I was ready to pick up the whole assembly with the hoist. I liked being able to install the trans/bell housing on the stand-I'm new at this, but it looks to me like it would be tough to mate up the engine to the bell housing already in the frame.
 
With the side stand, it's easy to tip the engine down, install the flywheel cover and dial it in. Then install the flywheel and check it for runout, and install the clutch and pressure plate.

I like to install the ****** first, then the engine. I don't find it hard to mate the engine to the ****** in the car.
 
There was a photo on Fordbarn that showed bolting the front of the engine directly to the plate on the stand, not using the stand's arms. This brought it in for less of an overhanging torque. When I worked on my engine, I switched back and forth between attaching to the side and the front. I only had the flywheel bolted on while the block was attached on the side. I used angle iron adapters that were inspired by the brackets you can buy, but they take a lot of time to position just right and would be too slow for other than very occasional use.
 
I do see the merit for the side mount but I have mounted them by the flywheel housing for many years with no problems. Be sure that the top two housing to block bolts are installed.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Are you able to remove and replace the oil pan with that arrangement?
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Yes you can remove the pan. But when putting it back on, you have to put in two bolts later. You can also turn the engine anyway you want it. I found it great to be able to work on the flywheel and clutch with the front of the engine down. Also to turn it upside down to check the bearings. I did not install the ****** on the stand.
 
The guy I learned from used a low bench, laying the block on its side. I have seen and heard blocks let loose from engine stands and don't like the sound. We used a portable floor stand to hold the motor before and after rework.
bob
 
Special Coupe Frank said:
Tom,

Do you use any guide-studs located in the lower flywheel housing to bell-housing bolt holes to aid in alignment ?

SC Frank
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Yes, when I get the engine close to the bellhousing I'll install a couple long bolts, so they can slide together. Then I can install a couple regular bolts in some of the other holes and remove the two long bolts to finish the bolting.
 
I adapted this old Clayborne stand for Model A engines. It uses the water inlet bolt holes and two manifold stud holes. I am not sure of its original use, but getting ready to re-adapt it for use with flatheads. Rod
 

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Brentwood Bob said:
The guy I learned from used a low bench, laying the block on its side. I have seen and heard blocks let loose from engine stands and don't like the sound. We used a portable floor stand to hold the motor before and after rework.
bob
Click to expand...

Also, use an engine stand with four legs/wheels. I had a 59AB Flathead on a three legged one...let's just say it hit a rock while I was moving it and I attempted to catch it, then I had to say sionara and let it drop to the floor. Shattered the water pump and gouged my cement floor. Luckily it did not take any toes or fingers. :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
Rowdy said:
I adapted this old Clayborne stand for Model A engines. It uses the water inlet bolt holes and two manifold stud holes. I am not sure of its original use, but getting ready to re-adapt it for use with flatheads. Rod
Click to expand...

Is thier a model number on your Clayborne stand? Your picture is too fuzzy to read.
 
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