Engine Stand Adapter

R

Raaf

Member
Hi,

I am looking at engine stand adapters - pretty common design like this one:
https://www.macsautoparts.com/model...-powder-coated-black-usa-made-28-23763-1.html

The question I have is, shouldn't there be a hole drilled through the tube at the back to accommodate the rotating bar found on most stands? How is the tube actually retained in the stand?

Is it expected that we should just drill this?

I would expect it to be drilled like this (completely unrelated model for different type of 4 cylinder):
https://www.parkautomotorsports.ca/products/4-cylinder-engine-stand-adapter

You can see that this example is drilled to accept the rotating rod and pin to hold it in place.

Thanks for any advice you have.

Raaf
 
Raaf: i have one of these and use it often: other supply houses have it for a lot cheaper: hope this helps: you can drill the hole to whatever size you need: sk
 
Raaf said:
Hi,

I am looking at engine stand adapters - pretty common design like this one:
https://www.macsautoparts.com/model...-powder-coated-black-usa-made-28-23763-1.html

The question I have is, shouldn't there be a hole drilled through the tube at the back to accommodate the rotating bar found on most stands? How is the tube actually retained in the stand?

Is it expected that we should just drill this?

I would expect it to be drilled like this (completely unrelated model for different type of 4 cylinder):
https://www.parkautomotorsports.ca/products/4-cylinder-engine-stand-adapter

You can see that this example is drilled to accept the rotating rod and pin to hold it in place.

Thanks for any advice you have.

Raaf
Click to expand...

Those prices are extortion. Besides the welding looks like it was done by a
spastic.
You can make one for $10 worth of material and $1 worth of electricity.
 
i will agree if you are a fabricator/welder or have someone who can make it for you: if you sourced it out to a good fabricator it would be a hefty tag: mine came in with a bunch of parts i picked up: sk
 
Hope these pics post: Here is one i found in an old timers shop: simple: sk
 

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You will need the holes to keep the engine from rotating. The engine will want to rotate.

The threaded bolt holes for the water inlet are strong enough to support the weight of the engine. You can just use the adapters that came with the engine stand and use the right length bolts. If you have problems with the adapters moving you can tack weld them to the stand. In my case I used a lot of weld because I have no plans to use the stand with any other engine.
 
I put this 60-1 worm drive reduction gear on my engine stand, it holds the engine in whatever position it's put.
 

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Thanks all - really helpful.

At the very least it solves the mystery as to whether or not the adapter is going need to some holes drilled. Definitely does - and that makes sense.

...and indeed, the cost of the adapter is a ridiculous. You can find them for 1/2 the price of the one I linked to above, or as has been pointed out - you can fabricate your own.
 
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