Engine Stand Adapter

[Rodrelic]

I wasn’t comfortable until I held it from both sides. I like the stability, going to make at least 1 more maybe a little more refined

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

What diameter is the pipe on the common adapter?

Colin, generally they are 2.375" (-or 2⅜") but the tubing sizes on the Chinese-made stands are all over the place, but around 62MM seems popular (-which is slightly larger than 2⅜").

The bigger issue that we don't like about the imported stands is they are built for a 'vertically-challenged' person to work on an engine. Taller folks like me and yourself generally have an aching back after an hour or so of working on one of those short stands. That is why we built our own stands. We still have a couple of the imported stands with the Model-A adapters however we have built much taller (-and more robust) stands.

We also did away with the positioning pin and made our own locking system so the flexibility is much greater in our opinion. Also, while it doesn't show in the pictures, we have a sheetmetal tray that fits onto the stand to catch dripping fluids during teardown.

One thing that I am unsure whether to promote or not, is we did away with the two arms and are solely using the area around the water inlet to support everything. We probably have been them that way on both bigger stands for about 2+ years now and I am guessing that between the two stands, they have seen about 30-40 full rebuilds on them. As of writing this, we have not experienced any breakage or damage in the inlet area only using that area to support an engine. I am not sure what others experiences will be, so I am leery to suggest that for others, but it has been suitable for us.

The ones they have been selling, should have been made so you can get a wrench on the cap nut easier and more room to turn the wrench. It is kinda tight to get in there.

I agree Mark, and while it isn't perfect, I think one of the pictures below shows how much clearance there is. It does work for us though. Maybe we could use a smaller mount next to the plate and increase the size closer to the axis tube?? Thoughts??

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[katy]

I put a worm drive gear reduction on my engine stand to make it easier for my bad back to turn:

 

[Benson]

Brent,



"That stand is TOP SHELF" !! (An excellent engine stand)

 

[alexiskai]

One thing that I am unsure whether to promote or not, is we did away with the two arms and are solely using the area around the water inlet to support everything. We probably have been them that way on both bigger stands for about 2+ years now and I am guessing that between the two stands, they have seen about 30-40 full rebuilds on them. As of writing this, we have not experienced any breakage or damage in the inlet area only using that area to support an engine. I am not sure what others experiences will be, so I am leery to suggest that for others, but it has been suitable for us.

For comparison, the threads in each individual head stud are subject to 5-10,000 lbs of tensive force when the engine is running at WOT, so hanging a 500 lb engine off two bolts of identical size (7/16-14) to those studs seems pretty safe.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

For comparison, the threads in each individual head stud are subject to 5-10,000 lbs of tensive force when the engine is running at WOT, so hanging a 500 lb engine off two bolts of identical size (7/16-14) to those studs seems pretty safe.

Colin, it really is not the stud that is potentially the issue, I think it is the casting.

 

[Rodrelic]

I like the U piece that catches the pan as well as the side, I have a 29 to take apart now, so will try that, thanks

 

[31 RPU]

Here is a store bought one I pulled out to take a photo of. I haven’t used it yet.

 

[Oldgearz]

Doing my 8N tractors I mount from the back end like Bob Bidonde says. Then hang engine from mobile crane to work on clutch housing, flywheel, etc. Works for me and seems pretty easy. It's great to have the perfect tool but not always possible for many of us I suppose.