Engine / spring mount issue

Great Lakes Greg

Great Lakes Greg

Well-known member
Pictured is the front mount that came with the chassis I bought. I didn't pay attention when I took it apart and now question why the castle nut is nearly an half inch past the hole in the stud. Ideas anybody?
 

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More likely is your front mount is '26-'27 Ton Truck (TT) which is longer for the larger TT front cross member.

The one you have does have the boss and threaded hole for the radiator apron screw which is a '26-'27 feature. Your front cross member is pre-'26.

A quick check is the thread size, that TT front mount is 5/8" x 18. A std. T front mount has 9/16" x 18 thread.
 
Two questions: What year car is this? Did you leave out the pad that belongs between the spring and the cross member?
 
The frame is a '23. The only thing I have between the frame and spring is a strip of rubber for squeaks.
Everything had the same crusty look when I disassembled it, so it must have been a very old replacement/repair. I can't imagine how somebody would have gone about breaking this part in the old days, but I guess anything is possible.
Thanks for everybody's input.
 
Before I get too carried away and cut the legs and drill new holes, can anybody use this part? I don't want to booger it up if it's a rare piece. If they are a dime a dozen, well then I don't care.
 
Y'now, I did think of putting some acceptable looking spacers in, seen as how it's a speedster and not a fine point resto. That would be easier.
 
That TT part#1165 (factory#2921) Front Bearing and Spring Clip isn't very rare, and they are found many times on put-together car chassis, as commonly are unknown by many of the presence of two different spring clips, (car part#3075B), the smaller of the two.

Best look would be to cut the threads shorter, re-drill for cotter pin hole, and use castle nut, with the bigger thread on the TT front bearing, you can use rear axle shaft nuts, they are the same thread size.
 
All valid points. If you decide to use it scrape the paint out of the oil pan saddle. Its a semi critical fit. It may go or you might struggle. Eventually it will wear off. It really needs to move and is also somewhat of an electrical grounding point too. Cut a heavy leather belt or re-enforced rubber conveyor belt between the frame and top spring leaf. About 1/4"+ up to 3/8". ws
 
I ended up cutting the legs off and re-drilling the holes. It looks much better. For the spring rubber, I took some Model A floor mat rubber and cut a strip out.
Thanks for the tip on the electrical ground.
 
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