engine side pans attachment

The side pans attach to fasteners attaching the oil pan and they have fasteners connecting the pans to the frame's side rails, bottom flange.
 
Just loosen the appropriate oil pan bolts and then add the frame bolts to the bottom of the frame. It is VERY helpful to have a second pair of hands for this.

Mike
 
Engine side “ SPLASH “ pans, keeps mud and water from splashing up on your engine and firewall ! Helps keep dust from entering your carburetor ( think airflow) and may help in cooling ;-)
 
I use plastic push pins on the frame. Same thing used to hold fender liners on modern cars.
 
I've found in several cars that the ears on the splash pan that attach to the oil pan bolts are broken away. I suspect, but have no direct proof, that this would be much more likely with rear Float-a-Motors, which allow the engine to flex somewhat. For my '31 I fabricated some reinforcements using 3/16" bar stock about 1-1/2" long and maybe 3/8" wide to go over those flanges (sorry I don't have the exact dimensions, it was a while ago). I had to use oil pan bolts 1/4" longer to go through these new reinforcements. Have not had any issues with the engine pans separating from the oil pan since then. I'll try to get some pictures and add them to this post later today.


UPDATE: photo of my reinforcements. Engine oil pan is up, splash pan is down.
 

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I made these reinforcement washers for the engine side to spread out the clamping force. On the frame side, I tapped the holes in the frame for bolts (I forget size) and install from the bottom. Makes it a one old man job.

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I add a flat washer between the pan bolt head and lock washer to spread out the tightness. Sometimes the slots in the repo engine pans are too wide so that the lock washer slips inside the slot, allowing the pan to become loose and make screeching noises as the tips rub against the oil pan. The flat washers will be wide enough to cover the flanges and keep them tight against the oil pan rail.
Marshall
 
I just replaced my drivers side pan yesterday. I added two thin small flat washers to the oil pan bolts, and a bit bigger on on the bottom side to take some of the stress off the flange on the motor pan, and add clamping area. Is you hold the motor pan up to an oil pan that is sitting in your garage floor you can see the benefit of this. Costs about $1.50, but the benefits are greater than having to re-fab and weld in new material down the road.

Pan goes between the top two flat washers, then the motor pan tab, and then the underside has the slightly larger flat washer (which I ground a flat edge on) with the lock washer. Don't go nuts tightening these bolts to the oil pan. There is still a gasket in there to consider.
 
After both my engine pans had the front ears broken off from engine vibration, I decided to soft mount my new pans on the engine side using two fender washers and two 1/8 inch thick rubber washers. This washer-rubber-pan-rubber-washer stack at the pan mounting points has cut down engine to frame vibration and hopefully extended the life of my engine pans. Been working for three years now.
 
AL in NY said:
After both my engine pans had the front ears broken off from engine vibration, I decided to soft mount my new pans on the engine side using two fender washers and two 1/8 inch thick rubber washers. This washer-rubber-pan-rubber-washer stack at the pan mounting points has cut down engine to frame vibration and hopefully extended the life of my engine pans. Been working for three years now.
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I was going to say that adding a rubber washer should help on vibration some. I remember another thread here about attaching the pans and som one tapped the holes on the frame and could just screw in bolts from underneath while you’re already there, no need for third hand. You can always use nut and bolt even with this method if it’s a points car. I plan on doing this myself.
 
History said:
I was going to say that adding a rubber washer should help on vibration some. I remember another thread here about attaching the pans and som one tapped the holes on the frame and could just screw in bolts from underneath while you’re already there, no need for third hand. You can always use nut and bolt even with this method if it’s a points car. I plan on doing this myself.
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Think about this a bit. The existing holes are clearance holes. If you thread them then you'll have to use larger bolts and nuts, which would not do well on a points car...
 
Y-Blockhead said:
On the frame side, I tapped the holes in the frame for bolts (I forget size) and install from the bottom. Makes it a one old man job.

History said:
I remember another thread here about attaching the pans and som one tapped the holes on the frame and could just screw in bolts from underneath while you’re already there, no need for third hand. You can always use nut and bolt even with this method if it’s a points car. I plan on doing this myself.
Click to expand...

As mentioned in post #9.
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Hello Norm--I have found the easiest way to install engine pans is to first attach them to the frame. Then loosen the appropriate engine pan bolts, bend the pan slightly to fit the slots onto those loosened bolts. Tighten the pan bolts to 10 ft/lbs.
 
Steve Schmauch said:
Hello Norm--I have found the easiest way to install engine pans is to first attach them to the frame. Then loosen the appropriate engine pan bolts, bend the pan slightly to fit the slots onto those loosened bolts. Tighten the pan bolts to 10 ft/lbs.
Click to expand...
This is the way I do it too. I leave the frame screws a bit loose and tighten everything up snug once all they're all started. Go back a few miles later and confirm that the pan bolts are still tight, sometimes the oil pan sheet steel will hang up on a thread on the bolt and what seems tight isn't completely bottomed out.
 
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