Engine seized 2 miles after rebuild

By-pass filter needs 1/4" ID lines, full flow needs 3/8" ID lines, according to Henry's engineers. Since the oil pump is a metering pump, it will pump exactly the same volume every revolution regardless if part of the circuit is larger or through a filter cannister etc. You can't encourage a gear pump to pump more volume, you have to spin it faster or make it bigger. ..B.
 
41panelmark said:
So I have a question. I have a fresh engine with around 250 mile on it that uses the old style filter set up mounted to the driver's side head. Going down the road I have 60+ pounds according to the gauge on the dash. When I am at idle that reading goes way down to 10. I do not have a restricter in the line. The line comes out at the oil pressure switch and goes into the filter canister. From there it goes up to the front of the timing cover. Forgot to put the line on after a distributor adjustment one time. Pumped out almost the entire crankcase worth of oil in about 15 seconds.

If I put a restricter in the line will I be safe? Do I need one?
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This is a bypass filter setup, right?
There should be a 1/16" approx restrictor in the line, to limit the amount of oil being taken away from the bearings etc. The restrictor is built into the fitting as the oil comes from the engine, if there is no restrictor, you should plug the bore of the fitting and drill it 1/16".

The above is irrelevant for full flow systems, only good for bypass systems.
 
Zeke,
Here's what this one looks like. I haven't measured it yet, but some of the pits are pretty deep.

So, anyway to use lines for the oil system that would look a little more period correct than AN fittings?
 

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Mart:

Do you have a picture:

There should be a 1/16" approx restrictor in the line, to limit the amount of oil being taken away from the bearings etc. The restrictor is built into the fitting as the oil comes from the engine, if there is no restrictor, you should plug the bore of the fitting and drill it 1/16".
 
I apologize for still being confused here, but on my 1948 59a block, i found no grub screw, but a spring loaded valve. I see the exterior boss where I need to drill and thread, looks to be angled inward some.

Should I drill and tap this, and then block off the two passages with a grub screw?
And what is meant by a 95% system? 5% gets filtered? or 5% does not?
 
Post 41 by rotorwrench tells it the best.
I didn,t know what was being said.
I guess it would be like a house the first floor toilet "main bearing" gets 5% and every thing on 2nd floor gets filted.
Or like those filters you put on the fosset for drinking.
 
Thanks George, I missed that before. Saved and printed. I will be running electric pump, so I guess that cam bearing gets installed 90 degrees rotated.
 
The way the oil pump is set up in the flathead, the oil pump feeds the rear main directly. The rest of the engine is fed from the gallery. When you tap into the gallery and introduce a full flow filtering system, you filter the supply to everything except the rear main. Because not everything gets filtered oil, it's dubbed a 95% system. It's not an exact number, just a name.

On the subject of the bypass filter: I'm sorry I do not have a pic of my restricted fitting.

Mart.
 
All of the above are good suggestions. You say that you pulled the plugs. Did you try to turn the engine over with the plugs out? I rebuilt a 350 ( please forgive me guys ) Chevy for a boat about 12 years ago, took her for a spin and seized in about 20 minutes. Cracked head filled the cylinder with water!
 
Barlea said:
By-pass filter needs 1/4" ID lines, full flow needs 3/8" ID lines, according to Henry's engineers. Since the oil pump is a metering pump, it will pump exactly the same volume every revolution regardless if part of the circuit is larger or through a filter cannister etc. You can't encourage a gear pump to pump more volume, you have to spin it faster or make it bigger. ..B.
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Barler, how about those Canada blocks that came from the factory or army enginers with full flow filters, that just had the 1/4in. pipe thread holes like the the std. engine. Walt
 
Walt Dupont--Me. said:
Barler, how about those Canada blocks that came from the factory or army enginers with full flow filters, that just had the 1/4in. pipe thread holes like the the std. engine. Walt
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Yes, the military engines and the post-war Ford Canada V8s with the full flow option used the 1/4" pipe thread oil ports, but remember that 1/4" pipe thread is bigger than 1/4", and a 1/4" pipe thread fitting for a 3/8" ID pressure hose or pipe will provide a 3/8"ID through it. The drawing from the '46 Ford Mercury Monarch parts manual shows the type available through '48, with 3/8" ID hard lines, and the later type available until the end of '51 used a different cannister and 3/8" flexible lines. Both used a similar fitting into the outboard oil port for the pressure line to the filter. ..B.
 
I'm planning on putting the motor in this car. It's free for the taking, I just have to get it home without my wife seeing it.LOL
 

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Barlea said:
Yes, the military engines and the post-war Ford Canada V8s with the full flow option used the 1/4" pipe thread oil ports, but remember that 1/4" pipe thread is bigger than 1/4", and a 1/4" pipe thread fitting for a 3/8" ID pressure hose or pipe will provide a 3/8"ID through it. The drawing from the '46 Ford Mercury Monarch parts manual shows the type available through '48, with 3/8" ID hard lines, and the later type available until the end of '51 used a different cannister and 3/8" flexible lines. Both used a similar fitting into the outboard oil port for the pressure line to the filter. ..B.
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I have weatherhead 1/4" male pipe to 3/8" id barbed hose fittings in my shop they have a .250" passage through them not 3/8". Impossible to have a 3/8" barb fitting with a 3/8" passage for a hose with a 3/8" id. Id and od would be the same ??

R
 
These are not barbed fittings, they are for hard lines and the later ones fit up to manufactured flex lines, the ID is 3/8" or very nearly so, when the bottom of the brass fitting is drilled with a 3/8" bit it only takes a very slight amount to allow the 3/8" thinwall tube to slip in. The tube fits into the oil port the same as the factory fitting to block the horizontal passage except the factory fitting was machined in one piece with the same dimensions. Bear in mind the factory designed the oil passages with ample size for the flow that the pump would produce and a slight restriction would not cause any constipation to worry about. ..B.
 
You are missing the point the 1/4" pipe end has .250" inside bore hole.
1/4" pipe od is .495".
A 3/8" hole is .375" difference of .120"
.060" wall thickness. This does not take into consideration the thread depth?
1/4" pipe is 1/4" pipe
R
 
I think you guys have been watching "Days of Thunder" too much. That is, Robert Duvall talking about hiding increased oil quantity in bigger lines. I can't wait to see the NASCAR flathead.:p
 
Now Lou. Doncha know a lotta us old geezers have forgotten about the age-old suggestion of simply changing oil every few thousand miles might actually be enough to keep an old flathead from havin' a stroke or seizure? So due to our fading memory we're more or less forced to get anal about dressing up and sometimes plugging up our beloved flatties with fancy plumbing and chrome-plated filters. Geez, I thought all old geezers knew that! 8^)

Jack E/NJ
 

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Ronnie said:
You are missing the point the 1/4" pipe end has .250" inside bore hole.
1/4" pipe od is .495".
A 3/8" hole is .375" difference of .120"
.060" wall thickness. This does not take into consideration the thread depth?
1/4" pipe is 1/4" pipe
R
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OK, just measured the Ford fitting, ID of the fitting and the tube from the bottom is .308 and the OD of the tube looks to be .372 so about .030 wall thickness of the tube. ..B.
 
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