Engine removal with radiator in place

marc silva

marc silva

Senior Member
I am getting ready to pull my motor and was wondering if it can be done without actually taking the radiator and shell off the car. I know the hood and supports have to go. All that is left is the block and head. Starter, generator and water pump is off as well as exhaust/intake. I don't mind taking a little extra time if it means not as much dis-assembly.I am just not sure if angles of removal necessary will let me do it that way.
 
When I pulled my motor I took the hood, radiator, shell, light bar and the crank guide off....along with the water pump, starter, generator and manifolds...

Are you taking the transmission out also as a unit?

I'm not sure if you could lift it up and out with the radiator there, but I wouldn't want to risk damage to the radiator...
 
I plan on un-bolting them just not taking completely off just because of the wiring removal from the head lights and horn. All the stuff is old and I don't want to run the risk of screwing it up. I never thought about the height issue. My hoist will lift well over 6 feet. Its a front to back distance issue...is it too long to physically come out between the fire wall and radiator.
 
I just went out and measured.....Less than 3" between the crank pulley and the radiator....

I would't even try it personally...you might end up with an engine hanging and half way out and then have to remove the radiator...

If your wiring harness is original style with the ferrule type connectors at the headlights removal should not be that difficult...you can take the headlights and headlight bar off as a unit...
 
marc silva said:
I am getting ready to pull my motor and was wondering if it can be done without actually taking the radiator and shell off the car. I know the hood and supports have to go. All that is left is the block and head. Starter, generator and water pump is off as well as exhaust/intake. I don't mind taking a little extra time if it means not as much dis-assembly.I am just not sure if angles of removal necessary will let me do it that way.
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Hey marc,
Even with help, IMO, you would be asking for trouble/damage by not removing the rad and shell. If you decide to try it that way, let us know if it can be done safely or not.
 
Thanks, I just was out looking and I think I will take the radiator out. My headlight wiring is connected with bullet connectors inside the bucket not using the original connection. I just don't like removing the headlight rings any more than I have to because the little spring clips at the bottom don't like to be messed with too much.(they are really fragile) but I admit sometimes it doesn't pay to try to skimp weather its time or money. It's taken me 56 years for that to sink in but it never hurts to ask. My kids always tell me "you know better..don't cheap out"
 
hardtimes said:
Hey marc,
Even with help, IMO, you would be asking for trouble/damage by not removing the rad and shell. If you decide to try it that way, let us know if it can be done safely or not.
Click to expand...


I have to agree 100%.What does 160B say; "There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but there is always enough time to do it over."
 
It can be done because I had a customer that wanted me to install his new engine but didn't want me to remove the hood rods and radiator, for fear of not getting the hood lined up again. I should have walked, but I did the job.

While the radiator is out you might as well turn it upside down and back flush it. I use a sump pump and large tub to back flush, because you need more flow than a garden hose can supply.
 
Agreeing to remove your very expensive radiator "prior" to removing your engine makes a lot of sense.

How much sense?

Hmmmmm, ........... may sound crude; however, for instructional purposes only:

Makes about as much sense as removing your expensive white tuxedo "prior" to getting a colonoscopy?

Hope this helps someone to remember this "prior" precaution.
 
marc silva said:
Thanks, I just was out looking and I think I will take the radiator out. My headlight wiring is connected with bullet connectors inside the bucket not using the original connection. I just don't like removing the headlight rings any more than I have to because the little spring clips at the bottom don't like to be messed with too much.(they are really fragile) but I admit sometimes it doesn't pay to try to skimp weather its time or money. It's taken me 56 years for that to sink in but it never hurts to ask. My kids always tell me "you know better..don't cheap out"
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Rebuild the latches with new springs.

https://www.brattons.com/28-29-headlight-rim-set.html
 
marc silva said:
Thanks, I just was out looking and I think I will take the radiator out. My headlight wiring is connected with bullet connectors inside the bucket not using the original connection. I just don't like removing the headlight rings any more than I have to because the little spring clips at the bottom don't like to be messed with too much.(they are really fragile) but I admit sometimes it doesn't pay to try to skimp weather its time or money. It's taken me 56 years for that to sink in but it never hurts to ask. My kids always tell me "you know better..don't cheap out"
Click to expand...

While you have everything out and apart, consider moving the bullet connectors from inside the headlight bucket to just inside the radiator shell. That way you can remove the headlight bar without having to break open the headlight buckets to disconnect the wires.
 
Marc,
I've seen some great pictures of your coupe on the MAFCA website from time to time. It looks very original and you seem to use it a lot. Can you tell us/me about your car. It looks like a low mileage original. Has it been in your family long?
Neil
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
It can be done because I had a customer that wanted me to install his new engine but didn't want me to remove the hood rods and radiator, for fear of not getting the hood lined up again. I should have walked, but I did the job.

While the radiator is out you might as well turn it upside down and back flush it. I use a sump pump and large tub to back flush, because you need more flow than a garden hose can supply.
Click to expand...

Tom,

Tell us the trick that you used installing an engine and not removing the radiator and especially not removing the hood rods. ???
 
marc silva said:
Thanks, I just was out looking and I think I will take the radiator out. My headlight wiring is connected with bullet connectors inside the bucket not using the original connection. I just don't like removing the headlight rings any more than I have to because the little spring clips at the bottom don't like to be messed with too much.(they are really fragile) but I admit sometimes it doesn't pay to try to skimp weather its time or money. It's taken me 56 years for that to sink in but it never hurts to ask. My kids always tell me "you know better..don't cheap out"
Click to expand...

Hey marc,
GOOD kids, eh :) !
Yeah, 'bullet' connectors are our friends ! I have installed same setup inside buckets. What I recently did, when taking all apart, was to take blue mask tape and write /put on matching wires (mine not color coded). The black bullets 'all look alike' to me :D

Ha...now have to do wiring job over..bummer, as tape fell off:( . Hm, is it me or is life just getting harder;)
 
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Marc
I recently saw a picture where the guy left the radiator attached to the motor when he pulled the motor. He took the shell off but the radiator was still attached to motor by its hoses just dangling there.
Hard times
If you make the connectors opposite for each wire in the bucket you can only hook them up one way. Backward is impossible when done this way.
 
If there are only 2 sets of wires, just put a tiny zip tie on one set. If there are more than 2 sets, they make zip ties with labels on them that you can mark the sets to be connected.
 
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