engine removal from a 1915

Yes, you can. You need to remove the loosen the pitman arm for the drag link and remove the column from the firewall. Then, once the engine is loose; don't forget the wishnone, you'll need to lift the front of the engine up enough to the pedals wil clear the firewall. Then slide the engine forward on the frame rail with the pan arms. Or just remove the entire firewall and lift the engine with the hoist and pull it out. Remember to have your pan checked for straightness on an original KR WILSON pan jig if you are doing a total overhaul.
 
Is this the original engine, or does it have a starter? There can be a pretty good size difference in complexity. I agree that it is best to remove the firewall, then you have lots of room to get the engine out.
 
If it is a stock '15, it will have the upright firewall brackets bolted to the top frame rail and attached to the wood firewall and No, you can't just lift the front of the engine and slide it out - you need to remove the firewall brackets or you won't be able to slide the engine forward. Best to remove the firewall and hood former.
 
Frank, Are you removing your engine to deal with the magneto problems you've been having? Did you try the method of re-magnetizing the magnets that you were asking about some time back?
 
oof! Will's right Frank. Short of visible damage or incorrect electrical readings there's too many options involving correcting mag. problems before pulling the eng. That's a helluva lot of work/expense plus setting up the coil/magnet clearence is no picnic either.
 
Hi Guys'
The reason I want to remove the engine is it has developed a knock. I am going to get the bearings recast. First I will inspect all mechanical aspects. As far as the magneto is concerned when I drive about 30 miles per hour I am getting 24 vdc. I tore things down yesterday and will borrow an engine hoist this week to remove the engine. Thanks for the help. A local model t friend swares I can get it out without removing the firewall. I can't see how, the ears are to wide. I think he is talking about the later models where they made a cutout for them to slide past the mounts and fire wall.
 
First,
You need to remove the firewall brackets and firewall. Once those parts are out of the way it will be a breeze to remove the engine.
Second,
I bend a small piece of tin to fit under the pan ear, above the frame rail. Spread a little grease on the top of the frame rail, and with the piece of tin between the ear and frame you will find that the back of the engine will slide forward easily AND not leave a lot of scratches in the top of the frame rail.
 
UPDATE got the engine out tonight. found it quicker and less distructive to the paint on the hood former and firewall just to loosen the six body bolts and raise the body about 1.25' AND then slide the motor out. Thanks for all the advise. It gave me an insight of where to start. Frank pkny
 
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