Engine Rebuilder

jimvette59

jimvette59

Well-known member
Hi fellers I have a 53 Merc. that needs rebuilding. I am the first one to open it up and I did have it running. I live in North Eastern Ohio I need a qualified Flathead shop that can do this at a reasonable cost. Thanks for your help. Jim T.
 
Jimvette59 - I am in the middle of a re-rebuild of a flathead that I had done by a motor guy local to me who claimed he knew the motors and how to work on them. Multiple problems created by him have cropped up which I have had to fix. All of which has cost me way more money than I had ever planned on putting into this motor. I have multiple points I want to share here. First is trying to get these motors worked on and done properly is going to cost you more than you think. Second in hindsight if I had of smartened up I would have had my motor done by someone who does flatheads professionally for a living and had it run and broken in by them. Last is the cost to fix mine and all the time I have pissed away redoing the "builders" work has taken way to long and increased the overall cost to the point where I should have just paid for someone like H+H or Gosfast - a member on here from NY - to build it and ship it to me. I'd have been a lot better off in the long run and the motor would be a runner as soon as it gets installed. It sure has taken all the fun out of doing a classic motor like this to put into my 31 A roadster and driven my frustration level through the roof.
 
@Jmvette59
IF "gofast" from NY that Gordonc mentioned in the above post is the same guy I am thinking of here on the barn......AS GrodonC said bite the bullet and an AS ANDY GRIFFITH told AUNT BEA....."JUST PAY THE MAN"!! I have NO personal dealings with him but have followed several post that he has responded too and he sounds like the one you want to rebuild your motor. He test runs his work and stands behind it!!!!!!
 
Not sure if he'll rebuild your engine but check. Normally uses his own verified blocks. Short build Probably if he verified it's a Good block he will. Jerry Livingston, Witchata ka. Untited Specialists Engines http://www.unitedengine.biz/united_004.htm
he built a 49BA for me with some special order stuff. Good job, 12,000 mile warranty. Called many times & very helpful. his '49 up to '53 start at $2300 basic to $7500 turnkey with lot'sa bells and whistles, earlier about the same. Not sure how much you'll save with your core but he's easy to talk to. phone#316 721-6868
 
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There is a man in Warsaw, NY that has an ad in the V8 times. Mark Moriarty phone 585-786-2876. Don't know anything about him, just saw his ad.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here but I did my own engine. I did have it bored and the crank ground by someone familiar with flatheads. I see the most costly common mistake is someone not leaving a radius when grinding the crank. The stuff Gordon C has had to go through should not be done by any shop. This was someone who obviously did not check his work. I did all the assembly myself and have driven cross country twice. In the way of experience I have some but not a lot. These motors are not rocket science but like anything you need to inspect and assemble carefully.
I will also say that all of the advice above is good, however there is something to be said for driving what you built.
 
I thank you all for your input. Has any body used Hal Stambough in Toledo OH ? He was recommended by Phil at Gollers Hot Rods.com .
 
Frank Miller said:
I'm going to go out on a limb here but I did my own engine. I did have it bored and the crank ground by someone familiar with flatheads. I see the most costly common mistake is someone not leaving a radius when grinding the crank. The stuff Gordon C has had to go through should not be done by any shop. This was someone who obviously did not check his work. I did all the assembly myself and have driven cross country twice. In the way of experience I have some but not a lot. These motors are not rocket science but like anything you need to inspect and assemble carefully.
I will also say that all of the advice above is good, however there is something to be said for driving what you built.
Click to expand...

Hi Frank, the issues Gordon is experiencing is the exact reason we tell almost 100% of our own customers to AVOID using the Chevy valves.

Under most circumstances they are NOT necessary. I'll put this here again, if you have "small-base" cam vs lifter issue simply use lash caps, they will add between .060" and .080" to the end valve lengths and have NO effect on the springs or spring pressures!

Life is simple when you tend to keep things in perspective??

(Add) You need to ask yourself "at what point does the budget interfere with the amount of time/labor spent on the solution"??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. On a side note, I do believe Gordon has "licked" his problem AND will end up with the keepers in the correct grooves with his Chevy valves?, just a "hunch"!
 
GOSFAST said:
Hi Frank, the issues Gordon is experiencing is the exact reason we tell almost 100% of our own customers to AVOID using the Chevy valves.

Under most circumstances they are NOT necessary. I'll put this here again, if you have "small-base" cam vs lifter issue simply use lash caps, they will add between .060" and .080" to the end valve lengths and have NO effect on the springs or spring pressures!

Life is simple when you tend to keep things in perspective??

(Add) You need to ask yourself "at what point does the budget interfere with the amount of time/labor spent on the solution"??



Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. On a side note, I do believe Gordon has "licked" his problem AND will end up with the keepers in the correct grooves with his Chevy valves?, just a "hunch"!
Click to expand...
The valve spring problem was found because the builder did not have the cam timed correctly. I remember the marks being hard to see so I checked to make sure things were doing what they were supposed to do at the right time. I ground the original seats and used the original valves. I just wanted a reliable motor and they were when new. If I were doing it now I would use your bronze lined guides. I did use the one piece seal in the front. I also used adjustable lifters and composite gaskets. I had the rods rebuilt and the assembly balanced.
I wish I had replaced the oil pump pressure relief spring as the oil pressure barely hits 30 psi when cold but it is the same when hot and it holds 5 psi at idle so that is what I suspect. I figure as long as oil is flowing over everything then I'm good.
 
There is a rebuilder in Danbury Ct. that is familiar with flatheads. He has done a Yblock for me (Not started yet). The company name is Danbury Competition Egines, owner's name is Joe. He was recommended to me by a Tbird restorer who has his engines built by him. Tel. 203-748-7356

Maybe others here have info on him
 
I use Performance Automotive in Greeneville, TN. A family owned business that builds quality engines, and they stand behind their work. A first class operation.
 
Most issues we see with doing the Flatheads is there aren't many shops in the entire country that can even do the boring/honing correctly??

These are basically "flimsy" castings that really need a block-plate bolted in place when finish-honing, especially when finishing for the newer "moly" rings.

There are no shops that I'm aware of that offer "pinning" the heads to the block along with the gaskets! We do this procedure with the same plate we use to do the final honing (photo below).

Many shops won't get involved with the 95% oil filtering modification, I know by the amount of contacts I receive!

All these "little" procedures guarantees a much better and longer lasting build.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. For anyone looking for a builder, the very first question I recommend asking is "do you use a block-plate to finish hone the bores"? In today's environment it is really needed to do the best job! Here's another couple shots of the pinned block/ heads.
 

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frank,( someone not leaving the radius when grinding the crank) can you explain this in more detail. i am interested in knowing this,thank you
 
Put your engine in the trunk of your car/truck and drive over to GOSFAST unless you are determined to do it yourself. You'll be a lot happier dealing with a person that really knows flatheads, doesn't sub-contract the work and lets you tour his shop.

Peace of mind is worth a lot.
 
I recommend Mark Moriarty in Warsaw, NY. He did the motor in my 50 Ford convertible, and I'm very pleased. He is very thorough and knowledgeable. Advertises in Early V8 Times as Valve En Bloc. 585. 689-4797.
 
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