Engine rebuild for touring? Recommendations

S

sr325

Junior Member
Hi Guys,

I'm wanting to build a nice touring engine that can handle hilly areas. I live in the hills in Reno. A counter balanced crankshaft seems like a no brainer. And, a high compression (Snyders) head. But, I'm wondering what folks think about the pros and cons of the 5.5 vs 6.1 heads?

I'm also thinking about the Mitchell overdrive. Sounds like most everybody who's got one of those is extremely happy with it.

I'm wondering what other ideas/opinions folks might have about building a "nice" touring car. Mine is a '30 coupe.

Thanks!
 
I have a 1930 town sedan, four door and heavy. I assembled the Burtz engine myself with only minor problems that were easy to overcome. I have his cam, new stock valve line components, a two barrel downdraft Webber, and a high performance Ares muffler and tail pipe. I have the Mitchell overdrive and the Mitchell synchronized transmission. Good original mechanical brakes with Flat Head Ted kit, radial tires, and an F 100 steering box. I have the 5.5 Snyder's head but have a Burtz 6.0 head waiting for me to install it when I get back home. It has seat belts for all seats and safety glass all around.

My car is very happy at 65 mph on the highway. I would not hesitate driving it across the US or further. I don't know what the maximum speed is but it is over 75 on a level road. Even with this performance, I try to pick back roads and drive at 55 or 60. It is just more fun to do.

I consider this a very good touring car.
 
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With aftermarket cranks about 2 grand the Burtz engine makes great sense. I'm going to build one for my car. Current engine is insert bearing, oil filter, etc. I've got the Mitchell OD and recommend it.


Added after reading other comments: My car (which is my first A and I've had for a short time) was built to be a driver. It has 6.50x16 radials, a 1939 syncro trans, pressure radiator, electronic ignition, alternator (6V +ground), F1 steering box, etc. The PO seems to have added every little trick and doodad that came along to improve durability/comfort.
He even added a tool/parts box between the front frame rails and the wife is delighted she has 2 trunks to fill up for those weekend drives.
 
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I accord with the comments above and have one to add. Go to the next size up tyres and get 6 ply walls if you can, They are much stiffer and are waayyyy less affected by cross winds. IMO, the key to a good touring car is not so much speed and power but ease of driving. Radial tyres or at least the one I mentioned above go a long way to getting there.
 
Balanced engine, lightened flywheel, V-8 clutch, touring cam 6.0:1 head, "B" carb and intake. S/S valves and hard seats.

Very simple and reliable but will have very good power and will get the job done.
If available, use a "B" block, bigger bearings, stiffer crank.

A Mitchell O.D. will definitely be a good addition and also a Mitchell Transmission with 15% low and second will really make a difference.

I have this same combination in a 30 Tudor I use for touring and it works very well.

You may also consider even more compression as you are about 4500 feet altitude.

If your budget will allow, of course a Burtz engine would be preferred to an "A" or "B" block.

My opinion,

Chris W.
 
Stock model a fun, hopped up model a funner.
 

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I suggest that you have all insert bearings in your engine. NO BABBITT! Go with the 6:1 head in lieu of the 5.5:1 head. If you can afford it, go with the Burtz engine.
 
Thanks Guys!

Wow! Lots of good info and, Wow! again! That Burtz block looks awesome! When I was a kid, back in the '70's, I restored a coupe and dreamed about updating the engine to make it run more reliably and smoothly. Mine had a Terrible vibration at about 40mph that I had to get through before it would smooth back out a bit. So, discovering that someone has now created a fully modern version of the Model A engine is like a dream come true.

I'm seeing, sounds like, with the 6.5 head it will get about 50hp. So, probably still need Mitchell overdrive to make driving in the mountains comfortable. Is that about tops HP I'm going to get without going to downdraft carburation and other changes? I'm not trying to create a hot rod. Just a good solid mountain capable car.

Thanks again.

Richard
 
I've been racing & running Model A/B engines on the street for almost 70 years, there's 2 easy things to do to gain HP, more compression and a bigger carb, anything more can help but more work and money are involved. 6:1 compression is good, 7:1 even better. A downdraft carb, bigger than the B carb, I like Strombergs, an 81 helps a lot, a 97 even more. There is not a thing wrong with babbitt, I run a B block/C crank in my speedster with all babbitt, and turn the engine 4700 RPM thru the lights with no problems.
 
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