Engine rebuild advice needed

I

IGotIt

Junior Member
Hello! I have done quite a few searches but can't seem to find the information I have been looking for. I have a 29 Tudor that I finished three years ago. I will be honest and say I think I ran it a bit too hard for the babbit. It has a knock and the rear bearing is leaking like crazy. I have built a few engines but nothing like this.

I want to get the block machined for insert bearings I also want to weld counter weights on the crank. I am planning on the inserted rods also. I am looking for a supplier for the counter weights that are welded on. I also would like a info on a machine shop in the Denver area that will machine the block for inserts. I did talk with Bert's already but they are too busy with their complete engines to fit my block in so any advice of what I should do while in the engine and machine shop info is appreciated.

Thank you in advance
 
WOW !
WAITING THREE YEARS FOR AN ENGINE AFTER THE CAR IS DONE !

I agree with Sturgis39 too consider just purchasing an engine from Bert's in Denver, or Antique Engine Rebuilding in Skokie, IL, if Inserts and Balanced Crankshaft are your desire.

You can then rebuild your engine at your leisure during the next few years.
My own car was off the road for at least a weekend during my own engine swap.:)
 
i'm building one right now with counterweight crank. I bought the weights from (Mike's A Fordable A's) 1-888-879-6453 This is the 2nd. one I've built with the weights. I have my machine shop that grinds my cranks and balances my engines install the weights. This guy is a perfectionist. The weights are flame cut and don't quite fit the crank, he puts them in his Bridgeport and machines them to fit perfect and champher the sides and welds them on, a beautifull weld, and balances the crank after grinding and just had to drill 2 small holes in the end weights to balance. i'm useing Snyder's insert rods and bearings. I can't find anyone near Maine that will line bore for insert mains. Walt
 
You do not want just any one boring your mains. They need to know the distance from the center line of the cam bearings to center line of the mains. They also need to know where the rear main center line is. If you do not get it right your cam gears will never fit.

Best to send it to some one that knows Model A engines.
 
My first choice would be Berts off the shelf engine because of distance only. H and H would be my second choice. From reading your post I think I can see why Berts said no. Berts and H and H are beyond the learning curve. If you want one balanced, buy one at the local neighborhood store and take it to a shop that balances engines.

My neighbor is building an insert engine for a customer. The last I heard , he was brazing up the block. He screwed up.
 
Wild guess !

Maybe try calling a few recommended Model A engine rebuilders, a couple of top quality Model A parts vendors, etc. in "any" nearby state & ask for their help. Specialist usually hear about good specialist in any field.

Even Phil or Steve at your local Bert's may have a suggestion if you called again to ask for a possible recommendation.

Slight possibility any one of these engine rebuilders or vendors may know of a good rebuilder, (even if a "bit" far), like perhaps leaving on a Friday at noon with the engine & returning on a Sunday night; or better yet, a slightly longer enjoyable holiday trip during upcoming Holidays.

You probably already thought of trying this; however, just a friendly reminder on how important your Model A is as viewed by most of us who just never grew up yet.

Maybe try (972) 771-1911, Ron Kelley in Royse City, TX for recommendation -- did excellent work for me.
 
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Be sure to keep your original block if the serial number matches the title and/or frame number. The is especially true for an original number over one that has been ground and restamped.
 
Hands down, Antique Engine Rebuilding in Skokie, Illinois. Rich Fallucca does great work. Your engine will be rebuilt by him. I'm sure Berts and Snyders have good people working on them, but Rich has been rebuilding since 1975.
 
Kevin - Illinois said:
Hands down, Antique Engine Rebuilding in Skokie, Illinois. Rich Fallucca does great work. Your engine will be rebuilt by him. I'm sure Berts and Snyders have good people working on them, but Rich has been rebuilding since 1975.
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...and just how long do you think think Steve Becker and Don Snyder have been in this?? (hint: long before 1975!!) Please do not misconstrue my comment as anything derrogatory against Rich but maybe we should give credit where credit is due?? :o
 
I did talk with Bert's machinest. He is in fact the reason I am giving the banger one last go before I make the ole girl an AV8. He showed me that people make some nice parts and I don't have to be stuck with poured babbit. He suggested a shop to call in the Denver area but I can't remember what their name.

I have a machine shop that I use frequently and he is top notch. He builds tons of roundly round engines and is just as much a perfectionist as I strive to be. He can't do the journals because his machine centers off the two outside caps. He can do all the balancing and crank work I need to finish this. I will talk to Bert's one more time.

The reason I don't want to buy a short block is because I do have all winter to get this done and then I can do the install in the spring. I have built a few engines and one of my craziest is a 900hp ford powerstroke. It's all fun and addictive!

Thank you for all the input and insight
 
Bert's engines come with insert bearings. I have a friend that does babbit bearings for a living. He said he could not compete with Bert's and H and H on insert bearing engines. He could set up to do the work but to be competitive price wise he would have to do a lot of them everyday. My other friend decided to do inserts for a customer and he ruined the block.
 
Any advice on what rods to use? AER or Scniders? I like the price of Scniders but what's the experience with them?
 
IGotIt said:
Any advice on what rods to use? AER or Scniders? I like the price of Scniders but what's the experience with them?
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Compare the price totally. There is not much difference. AER rods include everything where Snider's are listed seperately, rods and inserts plus AER are honed for the pins but Snider's are not (25$). Pays to investigate.
 
We are still around doing Banger's ! But we are backed up with work and time is an issue, Whatch for the article coming in Jan in Secrets of speed on the Yapp head conversion..

Chris
 
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