Engine rattle

Two more things to check are too long of a inner starter bolt. Th flywheel will hit it as you slow down. Another I have run into often is a loose or worn front crank pulley. This sound just like a rod or main knock.
 
Crawled underneath it again this father noon after driving it to the shop, the pan is leak free but the oil is coming out of the cotter key hole. So,will pull on the 4th and try again on the rear cap and ck the clearance. Hope that's all it is.
 
As James Rogers says,its easy to make up a wrench to remove rear main nuts.No need to pull engine for that!When I was 15,I figured out a combo of wrenches to get the rear cap off in the car.
 
If you have a B engine you will have to pull the engine . If not you can remove the cap with the engine in the car.
 
I promised Maclab I would post a picture of the wrench for all here to see. Hope it helps someone in the future. I know mine works when nothing else will so good I don't even try any other wrench to adjust rear mains. It will also fit some of the others to help with them.
My wrench is made from a cheap 25 MM combination wrench and a Craftsman 3/4" socket. I also am showing another wrench that could be made the same way but uses a 1" combination wrench and a Craftsman 3/4" socket.
 

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When I dropped my rear main with the engine in the car I found that a Proto 3/8" drive 3/4" swivel socket pn 5279 would allow access to the rear main nuts. Nothing else I tried would allow you access in that small area. Worked great.





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