Engine rattle

Maclab58

Well-known member
I have had my 31 Victoria for about a year now and i have put about 2500 miles on it since I got it. From dy one it has had a engine rattle that I'm not sure what it is. It only happens when I let off the gas in the 30 plus mph range. Wrist pins? Rod bearings? How do I go about diagnosing the problem. It has 59,000 miles that I believe are original.
 
Will it do it setting still ? If so, try to get it to do it while you're working the throttle from under the hood and see if you can locate it.
If it only does it while moving, it may not be the engine. Then it could be almost anything.
 
I had one like that that turned out to be a loose bolt on my manifold heater cover. Another one not quite like yours was the gas and spark rods rattling in the steering column. THe trouble with these is, as Patrick says, they can be almost anything, and the sound travels through the car so it's hard to locate. If it's engine, use a listening stick and try to find it while working the throttle.
 
The noise could be a damaged or loose fan blade.

Before you do very much "under the hood" work with the engine running, be sure to look closely at the fan and be sure that it is not cracked or loose on the hub. It would be dangereous to have the fan break while your head is under there!
 
Could be anything from a loose fan to a dry universal joint and anything in between. Lots of parts that could make that noise. I don't have any suggestions except to drive it with the floor boards out and listen to the motor and everything back of that.
 
it could also be cam thrust, cam walking in and out at higher speed due to rpm changes. Make sure the spring plunger under the timing cover is strong, also the distributor or oil pump can rattle. Let us know what you find.
 
Ok guys, here is the update. I pulled the pan today mainly because of a fairly serious oil leak mainly at the rear of the engine. The rattle is a annoyance. To my suprise it appears to be a fresh rebuild. All the pistons look new, the cylinder walls have fresh hone markings. The shims, connecting rod nuts and cotter keys appear to be new, also the Babbitt appear to be new. This is all pretty exciting to find since the guy I bought it from was unsure as to the engines history. My concern is the leak. What should I be looking at for clues? Should I pull the rear cap and ck the drain tube? Any and all advice is welcome.
Thanks,
Jim
 
Pull the mains one at a time and check the clearances with plastiguage. They should be .001 - .0015. If they're more than that, peal off one thousandth, and try again.
 
A little more background. The leak is new. Just started a few wks ago but will leave a 6-8" diameter oil spot.
 
Make sure the oil fill cap is positioned to breath properly.
If someone cut the slinger and installed a seal, then maybe it has failed.
 
Tried to pull the rear cap off tonite. All I succeeded in doing was breaking my socket u joint. I could not break the nuts loose. Gonna get a new u joint socket tomorrow and try again.
 
Strange time for this to come up. I got a motor in yesterday for a core that the owner was having to constantly put oil in but never had a serious puddle. I began dismantling it to find the babbitt having voids, some as large as a pencil eraser. The first thing I found was a felt ring stuffed into the oil cap that was saturated with oil thus creating a plug for the oil fill and the crankcase. When this is done as the pistons rise they pull air into the crankcase via the rear tube and slinger. As the piston move down, this excess air is compressed and expelled via the same route except now the oil has to be pushed out first creating a terrible leak even with a good main and correct clearances. It also had a Burtz seal which along with being not much good in my opinion, had failed because of so many adverse pressures working against it. I also found, completely by chance, the return tube had been powder coated and either the ends were plugged with cloth then to keep powder out or, later to stop oil flow which, it did quite effectively.
Just some things to keep in your mental register for use later. If it can be done, it will and wrong sometimes.
 
As a follow up, after a busy week I finally got back in the shop yesterday and again tried to get the rear cap off with no success. I guess it's just due to the angles necessary with the engine still in the car. So I decided to replace the gasket and try that hoping it was just oil leaking around the pan that was just running back and dripping off the flywheel housing. Well I drove it a mile or two and pulled back in the shop and watched as a small quarter sized puddle appeared. This is a lot better than the saucer sized puddle I was seeing before. So I drove it to the house, a distance of 5 miles and and pulled up in the drive way which has a slight incline and watched. A slightly larger than quarter size puddle appeared. By morning it was 6 inches in diameter. I guess I will have to pull the engine to get to the rear cap so I can breathe nuts loose so I can check clearance an the condition of the slinger. Also I guess a possibility is a leak on the back of the block where the gasket is suppose to be between the flywheel cove. Suggestions?
 
Sounds like the rear main needs to be checked. I have a 3/4" socket welded into a 25MM box end wrench. It will work on any rear main and the ratchet will still fit the socket to make a big T handle wrench for stubborn nuts. also, you can use a 1/2"X 3/4" socket on a breaker bar to get at the nuts.
 
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