Engine quit, won't restart

37Flat

37Flat

Senior Member
I just installed a new radiator with electric fans and a new alternator. Primed the carb and it fired up first try. It was running rough, so I shut it off and discovered I’d loosened a couple of plug wires. Put them back on, started the engine and all was looking good - oil pressure 60#’s, alternator at 14v. Then it quit. The best I can get now is a quick cough when I try to start it. Haven’t been able to get anything else since.

Any ideas? I’m out. It’s a ’37 221.
 
Coil or condenser? Not sure how you have it wired, but check the fuse(fuses)
 
It's 12 volts, crab distributor, Blue Streak FD471-X Coil from Mac's, resistor and condenser from NAPA, no fuses installed as of yet, just getting the engine together.
 
Just to verify that it is an ignition problem, pull the coil wire from the crab distributor cap and crank with the ignition on. The coil wire should jump half an inch with a blue spark.

Weak spark, check 12 volts at the coil (assuming the 12 volt coil has built in resistor, and you have bypassed the resistor under the dash). If that is okay, the condenser would be the most likely suspect. Maybe the points were not tightened to the breaker plate. Check the points gap and contact surfaces clean and not pitted.

Are you using solid core or spiral wound spark plug and coil wires?
 
Check the coil with an ohmmeter to determine in the winding went open. We don't buy from Mac's because of problems with ignition parts quality, primarily points. I understand the place has changed hands, so perhaps they have fixed the situation. It is important to know that the "crab" distributor rotor is special to that model. The correct crab rotor part# is 21A-12200 for the V8. Check the inside of the cap for damage if the wrong rotor was installed.
 
Bubba’s uses Bosch coils - I use the one without the built in ballast resistor and run the Chrysler ballast resistor. Works very well for my purposes ......
 
Was gone for a few days, but back in the shop today. The rotor is correct. The coil checks out ok, but the condenser is toast. Before installing the new one, I thought I should check the ballast resistor. Continuity checks out, but the voltage remains 12+ from side to side and from + side of 12 volt coil to ground. It is my understanding that the voltage should step down between 6-9 with a resistor. Would this be what fried the condenser? I'm using an FA54 condenser and an ICR11 resistor, both from NAPA. Thanks for all the help so far.
 
Your voltage reading is going to depend on the points being open or closed. They have to be closed to get the correct reading.
 
Sounds like an ignition issue. Not sure... coils can check out fine cold. Lot of things changed and going on. Running 12v on a stock ignition will break down. 4v at a stock coil/crab.
 
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Chris, You are just 30 miles from San Antonio's Southern Texas Regional Group 71 of the EFV8CA.
Lots of help there, lots of friends also! :D
 
With a "can" coil voltage should be around 7v with a 1.5 ohm coil and a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor. That's at the coil with the points closed.
 
Just to update - checked the coil, it's ok, replaced the condenser, still no spark at the plugs. Discovered one of the points wasn't firing. Cleaned it, re-gapped it, put it back together and it fired right up. running smooth. Is there another type of points (NAPA)or are the ones from the antique parts places the only option for a 12 volt system? Thought a spare set might be good to have.
Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Learned a lot.
 
alanwoodieman said:
you can get them from NAPA, I do from my local store
Click to expand...

Great! Wouldn't happen to have their part number would you? A lot of young guys at my store that are very well versed at newer stuff, but get a look of shock on their face when I tell them what I'm working on. If not, no problem. Thanks.
 

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