Engine problem or normal?

What does the engine sound like when running? If it doesn't rattle or knock I would think its a gauge or sending unit problem.
 
flatheadmurre said:
Even badly worn engines with zero pressure at idle usually goes higher then 12 when rpm is increased...
A little history on the engine perhaps what has been done to it ?
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Motor was rebuilt at reputable engine shop. It got a whole makeover with new parts. Runs great and not looking at oil pressure allmwould seem perfect. The gauge is a factory gauge that was just restored.
 
I had a engine re built by a shop that has/had a good reputation and i put the engine in. At first the oil pressure seemed good but after a few day's it drooped off. So out it came. Sent it off to another shop and they found that a gasket had been installed on the oil pump that isn't required and it blew out.
 
Going back through rereading this and other threads I came across torque specs and threads in this topic. I retorqued my heads at 65-70 as the manual says but reading I get opinions all over the place. Could 70lbs be any of my problem with anti freeze leaking out the overflow due to exhaust leaking or am I overthinking this?
 
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I never torque more that 55 lb. Usually go 50 lb. 70 is definetly too much, but I don't see how it could be causing your problem.
 
flatjack9 said:
I never torque more that 55 lb. Usually go 50 lb. 70 is definetly too much, but I don't see how it could be causing your problem.
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Maybe a dumb question, probably is, what makes 70 to much if that’s what the torque specs call for? Should the 70 be backed off?
 
Where did you read that? 70 is the maximum torque rating for a 7/16-13 grade 8 fastener, but that may overstress the threads in the block.
 
I believe those are the specs on Mac’s website. As I think more about it I actually did 65 on them.
 
The oil line from the block to the filter should have a restriction to limit oil flow and loss of oil pressure. I've found that about .060" diameter hole will be enough flow for the filter without loosing too much pressure to the engine's oiling system.
 
Wanted to circle back on this topic. I took the heads off and there appears to be no cracks and head gasket was good. Any other ideas on why anti freeze would be coming out the overflow?

On the oil pressure I put on mechanical gauge. On start up it idols at about 20lbs and then 40 at higher RPM. Seems to drop to about 10lbs after idol
For a bit.
 
edhd58 said:
The antifreeze issue could be as simple as overfill if you have no catch can. Coolant will expand as it gets hot then reduce as it cools. Mine stays just about an inch over the tubes. Could also be cap is bad, mine does run a 4 lb cap now, but 0 pounds was normal when it was new. Let the coolant level itself before panic if its not running hot.

I have no suggestions about the oil pressure except it does sound low.
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This sounds like good advice.
 
Those oil pressure numbers are not up to spec for a freshly rebuilt 8BA. In my experience, it should idle around 25-35 psi and run at over 50, hot or cold. Do you know what kind of oil pump was installed? I tried to save a few bucks on my latest build and installed a standard Speedway Motors oil pump. I think it is causing me problems with this engine.

The oil pressure on this engine is not where I expect it to be. It idles cold at 20, but goes right up to over 50 when I rev it up. At hot idle, it drops to 10 psi. I know a lot of you guys are OK with that and quote the old "10 lbs per 1000 rpm" saw, but in my opinion, this is not correct for a fresh rebuild. I have a correct tested Ford pump I am going to install in the next couple of days. I expect it to make a difference and bring my oil pressure back to where it should be. The way the oil pressure reacts to engine speed, I expect the spring is too "soft" on the low end and opens partially at low RPM. When engine speed comes up, the additional volume produced by the pump can't go through the partially open relief and the pressure increases. I will post what I find when I have the Ford pump installed.

Upon re-reading your last post. it looks like you are experiencing oil pressure numbers that are very similar to mine. Did you, perchance, have a Speedway oil pump installed?
 
Torquing to 70 is way to much. Maybe 60 with iron heads. and then in cycles.

Some regular guy flathead truths...

Yep you can over fill a radiator on a "stock old ford". It has a level it likes, not you.

Never trust an old gauge. Or a new one... multiply sources or a temp gun. Never trust a gauge

Condensers can be bad right out the box.

Get your coil rebuilt.

6 volt works great, you dont need 12 volts.

If you think it's a fuel problem its probably electrical

don't run eth fuel

10w-30w is fine

grounds, light doesn't work... it's probably a ground issue
 
Just an update on my current situation. I pulled the heads and the block is cracked. Defiantly not he news I was looking for.
 
I torque ALL my heads to 45/50 lbs, thru three heat cycles. Been doing this for over 50 years, and there's a reason for this: The block has rarring thickness of and will distort with over torquing. 45 ft lbs is more clamping force than a Chrysler Hemi
 
Sorry to hear the block is cracked, I don't which way you plan to go with it but a good machine shop can repair just about anything.
 
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