Engine priming/oiling BEST ideas.

Either way, the way Henry meant for it to happen with the exception of a litre or so down the distributor hole in the head.
 
While all of the above ideas are fine, may I ask why? If the engine is brand new, a good engine assembler will have used a proper engine assembly lube. The cranking process is generally not enough to force oil to the top side of the rod bearing where the wear would be most prevalent, and the Assy. lube is taking care of the main journal pins and 6-8 revolutions of the pump has oil filling the chamber where they will see additional lubrication.

And if an engine is slightly loose, it has likely lost all of the oil in the reservoir anyway however the journal pin will still be coated in oil. So in reality, just leave the ignition switch in the off position and crank the engine over with the starter to fill the chamber. After a few moments, turn the ignition switch to on and start the engine. If the first few moments after the engine is started, the RPMs are kept low, there is not any damage being done.
 
FWIW. I think I would just dump a couple qts thru the distributor hole to make sure the mains, dipper tray, camshaft, and timing gears get wet. Then the remaining 3 qts and start it up. I don't like the primary cable clamp so the distributor removal/installation is quick.
 
Patrick L has the right idea, but I would put 4 quarts of oil in the distributor hole. Doing so over fills the valve chamber. Some of the excess oil goes down the oil return pipe and onto the dip tray in the crankcase. Some of the excess oil will drain out onto the timing gears and also onto the dip tray. About 2 of the quarts will overflow the dip tray and fill the oil pan so the oil pump's intake is submerged. Before starting the engine, I would hand crank it to assure the oil is distributed.

I also agree with Brent, a newly rebuilt / overhauled engine should be put together with a good quality assembly lube.
 

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If the engine has been sitting dry for many years, I've filled the crankcase with oil, (full up to the top) slowly rotate crankshaft a couple times, then drain down and start. Probably not necessary but it helps my cringe factor! :)
 
eagle said:
If the engine has been sitting dry for many years, I've filled the crankcase with oil, (full up to the top) slowly rotate crankshaft a couple times, then drain down and start. Probably not necessary but it helps my cringe factor! :)
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By top, do you mean FILL to overflowing as coming out the fill tube ?

That sounds like a good idea. That should get everything in the crank assembly wet.
 
In my experience, DO NOT use Lubriplate or similar as assembly lube, especially if the engine will sit awhile. Also, the cylinder walls, piston pins, cam lobes and lifters all depend on splash lubrication, but there is no splash at cranking speeds! Pouring 3 quarts or so down the distributor opening ensures that the mains and rods and timing gears are lubed immediately. So why not get the engine to start as quickly as possible to lube the rest of the engine? No need to crank it over by hand or with the starter!
This is especially true if you're bringing a used engine back to life!
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Just leave the ignition switch in the off position and crank the engine over with the starter to fill the chamber. After a few moments, turn the ignition switch to on and start the engine. If the first few moments after the engine is started, the RPMs are kept low, there is not any damage being done.
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I may be anal, but I use Brent's method every time I start the Ol' Girl after she has been sitting a week or so.
 
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