Engine Oil Additive

No additive is necessary when using an SAE rated modern motor oil. Some modern bearings have a layer of babbitt as their bearing surfaces.
 
The only thing to make sure you use is oil that is high in zinc. Zinc is needed for the flat tappets in a Model A engine. The amount of zinc has been reduced in most oils as modern engines have switched to roller tappets. An oil that has the zinc levels needed is Rotella T4 diesel and Valvoline VR1 racing oil.
 
Poured babbitt is a good bearing if properly done. It can take anything that a replaceable shell type bearing can. Modern oils are OK. They used SAE 20/20 in winter and SAE 30 in summer back in the day. Some use 10W30 and some use 20W50 in the modern era but any engine grade oil is OK. I wouldn't use gear lube though. It's made for gears not combustion engines. I only use heavy oil as an assembly lube but I always prime the engine after overhaul and before starting to make sure all the bearings have a good supply of lubricant at start up.
 
Zinc is not needed for a Model A engine. It will reduce wear in an engine with flat tappets and high RPMs. Since the Model A engine is a low RPM engine the valve springs do not have to be real strong. A flat tappet engine which is a high RPM engine will have much stronger valve springs. In that case the Zinc will help reduce wear. However if it makes you feel better go ahead and add Zinc additive to your oil.


Bob Johnson
 
rotorwrench said:
Poured babbitt is a good bearing if properly done. It can take anything that a replaceable shell type bearing can. Modern oils are OK. They used SAE 20/20 in winter and SAE 30 in summer back in the day. Some use 10W30 and some use 20W50 in the modern era but any engine grade oil is OK. I wouldn't use gear lube though. It's made for gears not combustion engines. I only use heavy oil as an assembly lube but I always prime the engine after overhaul and before starting to make sure all the bearings have a good supply of lubricant at start up.
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From Ford Service Bulletins October 1928, pg. 291.
 

Attachments

For many years I have used four quarts of 20-50 HD motor oil with the final half quart STP.

Along with Marvel Mystery Oil in gas. Never a problem.

Enjoy
 
Ford oil specifications were revised in 1937 (IE August 1937). There is a service bulletin for that too. From that time on, The SAE 40 was used for Temps above 90 degrees F. After the war, the two most common oils were SAE 20/20 and SAE 30. When the multi-viscosity oils started showing up in the 60s then SAE 10W40 became the all weather oil of choice. When the EPA started mandating lower fuel mileage specifications in the last part of the 20th century then the viscosities started to plummet in order to decrease windage resistance in the engine crankcase to get better long distance mileage. They are basically the equivalent of light oil now days and syhthetic oil is much more common. With fuel injection finely metering for better efficiency then there are a lot less carbon by-products generated in the combustion chambers so the oil remains cleaner longer.

Model As with their inefficient design should still use an oil that will stand up to all conditions. This is where 10W30, 10W40, and 20W50 all come in. 10W40 is likely the best all around product but 20W50 is also in that category for hot weather and 10W30 for cold weather. Straight grade oils are being phased out so it is a niche market now. It's mostly for older antique vehicles in the modern era..
 
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I would only use modern oils if you have an oil filter installed. Modern oils are designed to keep dirt and particles suspended so they can be caught in the oil filter.
The model A oiling system works by letting dirt and other particles in the oil collect on the bottom of the oil pan when the engine is not running. To my knowledge with new oils you just circle any particles that are in your engine around which can increase wear.
 
Snake oil is good.



where does one get the snakes from- to extract the oil?


inquiring minds want to know...............
 
Here is what AutoZone says:

“Zinc” in motor oil usually is describing a compound called Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates or ZDDP. According to Valvoline, “its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film. Despite being referred to as zinc, ZDDP also contains phosphorus, which helps to perform the anti-wear function in the motor oil.”
Zinc acts as a friction inhibitor, and research suggests that older engines using “flat tappet” lifters in the engine (pretty much any V6 or V8 older than 1988) need to have zinc present in the engine oil in order to keep the camshaft and lifters from wearing prematurely.

I buy the Valvoline 20W/50 racing oil for my Burtz engine. That has zinc (ZDDP) in it. This oil should not be used in a car that has a catalytic converter because it will cause premature failure.

More information here:

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31484/engine-oil-additives
 
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Will N said:
The only thing to make sure you use is oil that is high in zinc. Zinc is needed for the flat tappets in a Model A engine. The amount of zinc has been reduced in most oils as modern engines have switched to roller tappets. An oil that has the zinc levels needed is Rotella T4 diesel and Valvoline VR1 racing oil.
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Zinc is not needed in an A engine. The valve spring pressure isn't high enough to cause a problem. It wasn't even in oil when the Model A was built. The improved lubrication properties of synthetic oil will offer a larger benefit.



The anti-wear additive zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, or ZDDP, was essentially discovered by accident in the 1940s. Originally added to prevent rusting, engineers found it increased the anti-wear properties of motor oil by some then-unknown mechanism.


https://phys.org/news/2015-03-long-standing-mysteries-anti-wear-motor-oil.html
 
Zinc in your diet will help prevent flu or colds. I take 50 mg each morning. It can upset your stomach so I take it with some whole milk. I have been taking it for about 5 years and have not had the flu or a cold during that time.
 
Every one of us can cite our own single data point, which makes for lively discussion. Here’s my contribution:
As I understand it, zinc (ZDDP) additives use different forms of zinc which may - or may not - work successfully with the oil you’re using. If you want high ZDDP oil it’s better to buy oil with that as part of its formulation, not attempt to add it later.
I enjoy watching The Motor Oil Geek’s presentations. This one explains why you should never use any oil additive.

https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=-Fgd3H22GsvufDxK

Remember, though, everything online should be viewed with skepticism, except this warning. Don’t be skeptical of advice to be skeptical.
 
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