Engine Noise

Do you have the correct spring in the cam plunger? Did you put the distributor in only snug(the better way), or did you horse it down tight? Bob
 
I replaced both spring and plunger when assembling the engine. Based on feedback and some of the engine noise stories I have been reading, I’m starting to think this is the problem most are having. Les Andrews wants 35 to 38 lbs. of force from this spring, I did not see anything about length. I've know way of measuring this and assumed the new spring would do the job. It looks like spacing the plunger has worked for many, I’ll probably end up doing that. And, yes I only snug the distributor screw I figure its not going any were with a lock nut. I think you would be on the verge of striping the threads on the screw by the time the housing distorted enough to bind the shaft.
 
Actually with a good shaft and bushings it doesn't take a lot of force on the holding screw to make the shaft bind. I use the screwdriver to make it finger tight, then tighten the lock nut.
 
Some have drilled & tapped for a set screw & lock nut to "back up" the plunger. Just screw it in snug & back out a trifle & lock the nut. Drill in the enter of the "BUMP." Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Some have drilled & tapped for a set screw & lock nut to "back up" the plunger. Just screw it in snug & back out a trifle & lock the nut. Drill in the enter of the "BUMP." Bill W.
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That's weird, I was thinking this exact thing before. It sure would make future adjustments easy. It must be a little tricky obtaining .006" of end play, the otherway. I suppose the spring would not be doing much with a setup like that.
 
flatheadkev said:
That's weird, I was thinking this exact thing before. It sure would make future adjustments easy. It must be a little tricky obtaining .006" of end play, the otherway. I suppose the spring would not be doing much with a setup like that.
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Kev,
I've done it before, It's easy & quick! It's a "must" on full pressure engines with a high volume, high pressure oil pump. I drill & tap it for 1/4" S.A.E.
I've even done it with the timing cover on the car. Magnetize the drill bit & tap, dip them in heavy grease, to "trap" the cuttings. If any cuttings do get inside, they'll be "trapped" inside the plunger bore anyhow.
Remember how we used to magnetize screwdrivers by winding an open coil of insulated wire, stick the screwdriver in it, then ZAP:eek: the coil across the battery. God! I'm ooold, as I remember when we didn't have magnetic screwdrivers!:mad: (Or air ratchets, or impact guns, what else am I forgetting?? I'll ask the Dog.:cool:) Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Kev,
I've done it before, It's easy & quick! It's a "must" on full pressure engines with a high volume, high pressure oil pump. I drill & tap it for 1/4" S.A.E.
I've even done it with the timing cover on the car. Magnetize the drill bit & tap, dip them in heavy grease, to "trap" the cuttings. If any cuttings do get inside, they'll be "trapped" inside the plunger bore anyhow.
Remember how we used to magnetize screwdrivers by winding an open coil of insulated wire, stick the screwdriver in it, then ZAP:eek: the coil across the battery. God! I'm ooold, as I remember when we didn't have magnetic screwdrivers!:mad: (Or air ratchets, or impact guns, what else am I forgetting?? I'll ask the Dog.:cool:) Bill W.
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I LIKE IT !…I have a spare cover, to drill and tap. It does not look like a big deal to remove the cover, just support the engine in the front with a floor jack and remove the bolts. If it goes well, maybe next time I’ll try doing it without removing the cover. Thanks for the details.
 
flatheadkev said:
Went on a 20 mile loop, the noise is on the right side (carb. side) and gets louder on full spark retard. I am thinking valve adjustment or cam gears.
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Number 2 or 3 cylinder or center main. When running(making noise) short
out one then the other, then both of the cylinders. Is the noise still there?
 
d.j. moordigian said:
Number 2 or 3 cylinder or center main. When running(making noise) short
out one then the other, then both of the cylinders. Is the noise still there?
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You're right ON Buddy,
Claude bought a fresh engine, KNOCKED!:eek: He pulled pistons, rods, etc, perfect! Went by & diddled. Short # 2, better, short # 3, better, short # 2 & # 3 together, GONE!! "Claude, some idiot FORGOT to adjust the center MAIN, crank is flexing & knocking!" Yep! Ole' Bill accidentally gets one right once in awhile.:p Bill W.
 
flatheadkev said:
I LIKE IT !…I have a spare cover, to drill and tap. It does not look like a big deal to remove the cover, just support the engine in the front with a floor jack and remove the bolts. If it goes well, maybe next time I’ll try doing it without removing the cover. Thanks for the details.
Click to expand...
Just remember, the engines work without making noises from the cam walking when done right. If you ruin a cover and lock the cam in position, you may damage something else, like the cam gear. Something is causing the problem. Don't put a band-aid on a real problem.
 
Re: UPDATE Engine Noise

Thank You all...It turned out the new plunger spring was only applying 23lbs. of force on the cam, 12lbs. less then the minimum required. I fabricated a .14" spacer and installed it between the plunger and spring. That increased the force to 36.5lbs. As soon as the engine started I could not believe the difference, sooo nice and quiet.:)
 
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