Engine mount rubber replacement

JoeCB

JoeCB

Senior Member
Is it possible to replace the rubber pads on the rear mount brackets on a complete assembled car (31 Coupe) ? Anyway to push the fame aside enough to slide in new rubber? And part two of the question... is there any real / noticeable benefit from replacing the old rock hard rubber with new? Thanks.

Joe B
 
Some model A parts vendors offer a frame spreader . The frame spreader may be too expensive for a one time use . I use to use my 4 ton porta power hydraulic jack before I got my spreader . I have replaced the rubber pads and feel that they do help . In most cases replacement of the motor mount pads are a necessity . If you replace the motor mount pads don't overtighten the bolts or it will contribute to vibration .
 
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It can be done.
1st unbolt and remove the passenger side motor mount by pushing it backward. You will need to support the engine while you do this job. Then unbolt the drivers side and remove it by pushing it toward the back. You may have to remove the peddles and the battery support to remove the motor mount. Put the new rubber piece on the inside of the frame and replace the drivers side mount. Finish the drivers side before you do the passenger side.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Some model A parts vendors offer a frame spreader . The frame spreader may be too expensive for a one time use . I use to use my 4 ton porta power hydraulic jack before I got my spreader . I have replaced the rubber pads and feel that they do help . In most cases replacement of the motor mount pads are a necessity . If you replace the motor mount pads don't overtighten the bolts or it will contribute to vibration .
Click to expand...

It would be hard to over tighten the motor mounts if using the proper hardware with spacers as done by the factory.
 
Quote … "It would be hard to over tighten the motor mounts if using the proper hardware with spacers as done by the factory. "
So are there bushings that go through the frame and space the motor mount from the outside plate??
Thanks guys.

Joe B
 
When the pads are too thick it takes more pressure to tighten the castilated nuts . I've seen some break before the nut got far enough to insert the cotter pins . Repro parts usually will be the cause . I've had to grind down the thickness of the pads in some cases . There may be a vendor that offers pad s that are not too thick . Most if not all that I have seen are too thick . Just because there is a bushing type metal spacer used doesn't neccessarily mean that the nut will pull down far enough to meet the spacer when the pads are too thick . If the pads are too thick and you do managed to tighten the nut until the parts touch the metal space , then the mount will be too tight . It takes more torque to tighten down the nut when the pads are too thick .
 
Brattons cataloge pg. 35, 2018, shows motor mount rubbers made to the Ford print. while I have not tried these, the last mount 's I put in , made use of some dish soap and they slid in quite easily. another time I used a spreader of my own design, didn't take much to move.
 
I removed the left side motor mount by utilizing two simple 5/8" all threads connected by a threaded collar. One end to the frame and the other end against the end of the clutch/brake shaft. Like Dave said, it doesn't take much to move the frame enough.
 
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