Engine Machine Shops Rejections

The "real life" reason you want to start with the "best you can get" to start(and the machine shop know this, no secret here) most of these blocks are "junk", it take time and effort which equates to $$$$ just to find out it is junk...
 
The lack of a service and or a service is must often the impetuous for someone to start a business to fill that need. If the OP can’t find someone to look at his block, I hope he starts up a business to fulfill the need.
 
BP said:
The "real life" reason you want to start with the "best you can get" to start(and the machine shop know this, no secret here) most of these blocks are "junk", it take time and effort which equates to $$$$ just to find out it is junk...
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This might be true, but if all I wanted was the best, what challenge would that be?
Maybe trying to find a forge that would cast me a new block to my metallurgical standards and dimensions could be a challenge. Especially redesigning structural web reinforcement. Oil passage enhancement would be a bonus too. This might be an option, it is just money. Could design it around a steel billet crank and my own rod design. Maybe even incorporate better valve geometry( enhanced with roller lifter!) with through block exhaust passages being redesigned. Multiple ideas on combustion chamber designs.

All of this is possible, very much so. Would not even cost me a half a million bucks.

But it would not be bringing back what was once alive and now dead, to the present living. That is the goal.

And it all starts with a clean block to assess what really needs to be done. Not afraid to pay for that either, so why the resistance?
 
Actually, there was a guy here a few years ago named "Todd" (I think "427Developer" on the H.A.M.B.) who was well along on a replacement flathead block. He was the real deal since he was already selling replacement Model "A" blocks. I think he decided to drop the project when the discussion here revealed how many blocks flathead guys have stashed under the bench and other miscellaneous places. I have a couple tested ones myself; some guys have over 20.
 
If a man wants to resurrect an old tired block and is willing to pay for the work, there's no reason a machine shop should refuse the work in my opinion. Yes, I do work at such a shop and yes we'd do the job as long as it's possible with the condition of the block in question. (No horrible cracks or destructive rust). Why not? It's just paying work and a willing customer?
 
Machine shop guy here for over 40 yrs. Brian's advice is spot on! In the past I have resurrected these kind of projects and lost(wasted?) more $ than I care to think about, not to mention wear and tear on my body trying to disassemble some of these projects that are supposed to be free (and spin free). My advice is to have the block pressure tested first, looks good enough to do that now. I would seal off the cracked cylinders, they can be repaired successfully with sleeves. The bottom of the block near the oil pan rail is the concern area. That too can be fixed by filling the block up to about an inch from the bottom. If it passes that test I would tackle the valve guides then seats. If you break through machining for a valve seat the block is basically junk, 'almost'. It could still be welded... Then I would sleeve it.
If this was a rare engine it would be a 'fun' project. Or you could purchase some equipment and have at it!
 
MJRodge said:
Machine shop guy here for over 40 yrs. Brian's advice is spot on! In the past I have resurrected these kind of projects and lost(wasted?) more $ than I care to think about, not to mention wear and tear on my body trying to disassemble some of these projects that are supposed to be free (and spin free). My advice is to have the block pressure tested first, looks good enough to do that now. I would seal off the cracked cylinders, they can be repaired successfully with sleeves. The bottom of the block near the oil pan rail is the concern area. That too can be fixed by filling the block up to about an inch from the bottom. If it passes that test I would tackle the valve guides then seats. If you break through machining for a valve seat the block is basically junk, 'almost'. It could still be welded... Then I would sleeve it.
If this was a rare engine it would be a 'fun' project. Or you could purchase some equipment and have at it!
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Bottom rail is spotless, no visible cracks even with acetone. Also, have completely disassembled the engine down to bare block. No need to waste time on that.
First things first, want block hot tanked and chemical bathed. I can do the sonic testing myself and the magnafluxing. But willing to pay the going rate, even locally.
If it becomes necessary to ship, it will be going to H & H. Which is the only shop that has shown interest in it so far, including putting sleeves in if it can be salvaged.
In the process of purchasing a Van Norman, it is being rebuilt. Might tackle everything myself, but also have two more engines (EAB and EAC). The EAB actually scared me a bit, a little gas, points and spark plugs and it started right up. Still needs to be gone through though, it is pretty tired as I can spin it over with one hand and a crow bar. EAC is still stuck, have it sitting in ATF/Acetone right now. Figure I can put the Van Norman to work on that one first. Even though I have sleeved a couple of blocks successfully in the past (not flatheads though), it has been over forty years. And have not touched a machine that can lift chips since I was in college (when I sleeved a 427 Ford FE and a 402 Chevy, both for racing).

Again, here is the bottom rail of the '47 59A
 

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tubman said:
Actually, there was a guy here a few years ago named "Todd" (I think "427Developer" on the H.A.M.B.) who was well along on a replacement flathead block. He was the real deal since he was already selling replacement Model "A" blocks. I think he decided to drop the project when the discussion here revealed how many blocks flathead guys have stashed under the bench and other miscellaneous places. I have a couple tested ones myself; some guys have over 20.
Click to expand...

https://search.brave.com/search?q=n...ersation=09a3c4f561887baa593c042da89022bb58ca

Note that the block only pictures are for an Ardun and not flathead designed valving.

"Motor City Flatheads (via Shadow Rods) developed an all-aluminum Flathead V8 featuring a new cast block finished to 339ci with matching aluminum heads, saving over 100 pounds and producing approximately 300 horsepower. This engine was showcased in a ’33 Ford Cabriolet testbed built by Jon Hall and Shadow Rods, with the engine assembly handled by Motor City Flatheads.

PXdlYnA.jpg


Don Ferguson of Ardun Enterprises produces a high-grade 356-T6 aluminum block specifically designed for Ardun overhead-valve conversions. This block features beefed-up internals, including solid main webs and four-bolt steel main caps, but is not compatible with standard Flathead heads.

Other historical and niche efforts include Mark Kirby’s unique aluminum prototype, which was not a direct copy of Ford’s design and faced high production costs, and H&H Flatheads, which manufactures aluminum cylinder heads but not a complete new block for the original Flathead configuration. General availability of new aluminum Flathead blocks remains limited due to high manufacturing costs and niche market demand. "
 
Good news up date, found a relatively close shop willing to hot tank and chem bath my block. The company has been building race engines for decades specializing in Mopars.

The job is conditional in respect that he will not accept it for any machining work. Just clean and inspect (magnafluxing and sonic measurements).

If the block can be saved, I just might do it myself and purchase boring equipment (Van Norman 777 with accessories for $800).
 
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