Engine locked up

I pulled the plugs first to find number 3 cylinder full of water. Drained the water (a lot ) and oil from pan, removed the head ( a lot more water) to chech gasket and head. Gasket seemed ok but the (C) head had previously been repaired. Brazed nearly all the way across the center. Nice job but I feel it's where the problem is. I have decided to get a new 5.5 to 1 from Snyders along with a gasket. Thanks for all the help guys. Ron
 
I'd never heard of hydrolock before... in other words, it never happened to me or anyone I knew. So I plead ignorance. Ain't the Ford Barn great?
 
ron103140 said:
Well I tried the easy way first. Removed the plugs and found number 3 was full of water. Next I drained a lot of water and the oil from pan. Removed head and got all water out of the intake and pistons. This is a "c" head and I see some brazing thats been done close to the center bolt hole. My questions are, do I need to remove the pan and clean any water that may be in the baffle or just add oil and run a little and change the oil? Do I need to have the head cleaned and magnifluxed for possable leak? I ordered a new head gasket when I installed the head and wander if I got an incorrect one as I didn't let supplier know I had a "c" head. Again any help will be great. Ron
Click to expand...

That's the reason I asked you to do that days ago.

Remove the pan and drain everything out. the little water that remains in the nooks and crannies will not be a problem. Now is the time to access the purchase of a new head and you have chosen wisely.
 
Henry's Lady's Man said:
I'd never heard of hydrolock before... in other words, it never happened to me or anyone I knew. So I plead ignorance. Ain't the Ford Barn great?
Click to expand...

An engine can also hydro lock from to much fuel (carb flooding) but less prone to happen on an up draft manifold as most of the fuel will run out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top