Engine knocking
- Thread starter TDS
- Start date
TDS
Member
36 flathead
Senior Member
nbr 5 not to good either
Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
Well TDS, there you problem, wrist pin has come out or broken and pin has come out and gouged the cyl. wall. Walt
TDS
Member
Hi
I was so sure the noise came from the very front of the engine - I guess locating noise in a engine is allways tricky.
Doesn’t sound like an easy fix?
Replacing the pins I guess would be ok but what do I do about the num. 5/6 cylinder walls? Could the pistons be damaged too?
Next step is to remove the pan to get access to the crankshaft and the pistions.
How many hours am I from where I am now, to pull the engine?
Haven’t messed with issues like these before – should I leave this to trained mechanic with the right tools or is it as simple as most other issues in at 1930 Ford?
I was so sure the noise came from the very front of the engine - I guess locating noise in a engine is allways tricky.
Doesn’t sound like an easy fix?
Replacing the pins I guess would be ok but what do I do about the num. 5/6 cylinder walls? Could the pistons be damaged too?
Next step is to remove the pan to get access to the crankshaft and the pistions.
How many hours am I from where I am now, to pull the engine?
Haven’t messed with issues like these before – should I leave this to trained mechanic with the right tools or is it as simple as most other issues in at 1930 Ford?
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Strange that 2 cylinders have done the same. I'd suspect excessive crank end float. Sleeves will fix those cylinders but she is a complete rebuild.
Quite likely you're up for a set of pistons, if two have dropped circlips, then the other six are probably not pristine either.
At the very least the rods are probably not straight.
Quite likely you're up for a set of pistons, if two have dropped circlips, then the other six are probably not pristine either.
At the very least the rods are probably not straight.
Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
You might as well make up your mind TDS, the engine is tired, remove the engine strip it to nothing, you'll be very lucky if the Babbitt mains are useable, if the mains are beyond use I'd look for a 37 engine, your heads, intake ect will bolt right on the 37 engine and then you will have insert mains and rods, they make block off plates for the front of the 37 engine to cover the 37 water pump holes. Walt
TDS
Member
Hi
I would be much better, but living in Denmark its allmost impossible to find another engine block.
I need to pull the engine out and take it to a machineshop.
Will need a list of parts to do the rebuild:
Position set - what size.
Rod bearings.
Maybe crankshaft bearings?
Rod wrilst pin bushings
Gaskets.
Anything else...
Thanks
I would be much better, but living in Denmark its allmost impossible to find another engine block.
I need to pull the engine out and take it to a machineshop.
Will need a list of parts to do the rebuild:
Position set - what size.
Rod bearings.
Maybe crankshaft bearings?
Rod wrilst pin bushings
Gaskets.
Anything else...
Thanks
Mart
Well-known member
V8 parts are around in europe - more than you would think. I honestly don't know what I would do. It depends on what you intend to do with the car. If you want to keep it stock it will be harder to find another block. If a conversion to a later non stock motor is feasible, then a French or German motor could be swapped in or a later 24 stud USA 59A type motor.
Depending on the current bore size, it might be possible to bore to an oversize and get into clean non scored metal. If the scores are too deep, then sleeves may be called for.
I'll probably bring down the wrath of most people, but there is another approach. The engine runs, but knocks. You could just pull the pistons, carefully inspect the pins, pistons and little end bushings, and as long as the only problem is that two of the circlips have come dislodged or were never fitted in the first place, you could just replace all 16 circlips as a precaution, put it back together and continue to run it. Ok, two of the cylinders will not be at 100%, but 6 will, and the two bad ones will be helping a bit. It would probably continue to run for a long time. During that time you could be sourcing another motor or all the parts you would need to do the job sometime down the line when it suits you.
It depends on you, your situation and your attitude.
I'm not saying I would necessarily do as I described above, I'm just laying it down as one end of the spectrum of options available to you.
Mart.
Depending on the current bore size, it might be possible to bore to an oversize and get into clean non scored metal. If the scores are too deep, then sleeves may be called for.
I'll probably bring down the wrath of most people, but there is another approach. The engine runs, but knocks. You could just pull the pistons, carefully inspect the pins, pistons and little end bushings, and as long as the only problem is that two of the circlips have come dislodged or were never fitted in the first place, you could just replace all 16 circlips as a precaution, put it back together and continue to run it. Ok, two of the cylinders will not be at 100%, but 6 will, and the two bad ones will be helping a bit. It would probably continue to run for a long time. During that time you could be sourcing another motor or all the parts you would need to do the job sometime down the line when it suits you.
It depends on you, your situation and your attitude.
I'm not saying I would necessarily do as I described above, I'm just laying it down as one end of the spectrum of options available to you.
Mart.
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
TDS come to sweden and have a look in my storage.
I might even have one that turns over and run.
I might even have one that turns over and run.
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
Found a couple of choices first one turns over.
Doesnt say much about the condition until you get it apart.
And your block is rebuildable so you have to descide what way you want to go with it.
But there are still engines around here to.
Sorry for the bad pics not much light in there.
Doesnt say much about the condition until you get it apart.
And your block is rebuildable so you have to descide what way you want to go with it.
But there are still engines around here to.
Sorry for the bad pics not much light in there.
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TDS
Member
Hi
I need to think it over....
I will rather drive my car than spending time saving money to do a costly repair but on the other hand I dont want to worried everytime I take a drive..
Great to know that I have a rescue in Sweden..
I will go to the machine shop all hear what they do for me.
I will get back with a update...
I need to think it over....
I will rather drive my car than spending time saving money to do a costly repair but on the other hand I dont want to worried everytime I take a drive..
Great to know that I have a rescue in Sweden..
I will go to the machine shop all hear what they do for me.
I will get back with a update...
TDS
Member
Well here is an update on my engine situation.
I pulled my original 1935 engine and took it to the machine shop.
The babbit mains were destroyed, 6 out of 8 pistons bad, the crankshaft was bad and 6 out of 8 cylinders had to be bored.
Om top of that the engine was packed with rust flakes, what properly caused the overheating and the loose piston pins.
I wanted to safe the original engine but it would cost me an fortune.
The machine shop searched and miraculous found a 1937 flathead V8 engine in Denmark instead.
The engine had been professional rebuild in the 1980s but never driven.
The engine has now been completely dismantled and rebuild again and now I’m just a single week from delivery.
It will cost me a lot and I have to restore the heads, water pumps and the manifold as my newly restored 1935 parts doesn’t fit.
But I’m happy and looking forward the get the old Ford running again
I pulled my original 1935 engine and took it to the machine shop.
The babbit mains were destroyed, 6 out of 8 pistons bad, the crankshaft was bad and 6 out of 8 cylinders had to be bored.
Om top of that the engine was packed with rust flakes, what properly caused the overheating and the loose piston pins.
I wanted to safe the original engine but it would cost me an fortune.
The machine shop searched and miraculous found a 1937 flathead V8 engine in Denmark instead.
The engine had been professional rebuild in the 1980s but never driven.
The engine has now been completely dismantled and rebuild again and now I’m just a single week from delivery.
It will cost me a lot and I have to restore the heads, water pumps and the manifold as my newly restored 1935 parts doesn’t fit.
But I’m happy and looking forward the get the old Ford running again
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GB SISSON
Well-known member
Great to hear this tale has a happy, albeit an expensive ending. You should enjoy trouble free motoring for years to come. Sounds like you were most fortunate to find the engine you did in your area. You going to post a new 'no knock' video when she's all back together?
1934
Senior Member
Glad to hear that you found a good '37 motor for your car.Not sure what you meant by 'my newly restored 1935 parts doesn't fit'. You can use your heads, water pumps, and intake from your '35 on your '37 motor. You just need the blockoff plates.Good luck with it.
Regards, Doug.
Regards, Doug.
VeryTangled
Well-known member
Hi Everyone, TDS, your engine can be adapted to use your 1935 water pumps and heads using the piece in the picture below. I have a spare '37 engine (for my '36 car) in the garage with these on it. This could save you some effort. I don't have a supplier suggestion right now. I would call it a 'water pump block-off plate' or something similar.
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flatheadmurre
Well-known member
If it´s the blockoff plates you need i have a spare set.