Engine install

gearloose

gearloose

Member
What is the best way to reinstall the engine/transmission. Trans/ bell housing first then engine or engine/ transmission as a unit?
 
NO, I am NOT pulling the body off to put the engine in. I do have them both out to change the transmission to the new synchronized one from Michell and change the clutch/pressure plate plus a new ring gear. I took it out as a unit so the best way is to install it the same way? Any tips to help make it a smooth one man job?
 
If working alone and the body is on the frame, I find it easier to install them separate. Two tapered studs made from a 3/8 x 2.5" bolt, help to align the flywheel housing to the bellhousing as it is coming together. To make the studs, cut off the head of the bolt and taper the cut end. (Round the cut end at a minimum.) Install one stud in the flywheel housing closest to the rear engine mount on each side.

As the motor is being worked into place, slip the stud into the proper bellhousing hole. The studs will cause the two parts to align when the margin of space is equal all the way around the mating components. I raise the bellhousing and transmission with a floor jack to help align the parts. Once aligned, a slight rotation of the crankshaft will allow the splined shaft to align with the clutch disc. Further in, turn the crankshaft some more and the transmission input shaft stub will slip into the pilot bearing.

I remove and install about two engines a month by myself and find this method the least effort. I will add some photos later (when I get to my shop this evening) to help you understand the stud shape and placement
Good Day!
 
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I do them separate also.
While the flywheel is off and you are installing a new clutch, be sure to set the pressure plate fingers to 11/16" while it's all on the bench.
 
gearloose said:
NO, I am NOT pulling the body off to put the engine in. I do have them both out to change the transmission to the new synchronized one from Michell and change the clutch/pressure plate plus a new ring gear. I took it out as a unit so the best way is to install it the same way? Any tips to help make it a smooth one man job?
Click to expand...



Patience slow and easy and if the torque tube is all in place, more patience and watch your fingers when aligning up the drive shaft

Terry
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I do them separate also.
While the flywheel is off and you are installing a new clutch, be sure to set the pressure plate fingers to 11/16" while it's all on the bench.
Click to expand...

Are you sure on 11/16? The books I have say 5/8", Les Andrews, vol 1, pg 1-148, the info sheet that came with the rebuild pressure plate, and the gauge to check them from Bratton's, all 5/8".
 
denniskliesen said:
Done it by myself as one unit. Leave the accelerator linkage off when going in until engine is in the mounts.
Click to expand...

This is what I did all by myself.
I am 73 yeas old and it took a bit of persuasion to get the motor mounts in but it worked.

Don’t listen to the by the book guys. Just do it
 
nhusa said:
This is what I did all by myself.
I am 73 yeas old and it took a bit of persuasion to get the motor mounts in but it worked.

Don’t listen to the by the book guys. Just do it
Click to expand...


I am doing it two parts with the guide studs after I pack the U joint. I am also 73 and I got the car in 1960.
 
Either way is a pain in the ***... I would install them separately, less weight you have to wrestle when trying to get the motor into the mounts.
 
Looks like you just need to use your own opinion and install it however you feel will work for you
Everybody has a better way in there eyes how to do things and that's what makes the world go round and round


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I do it like Dave except I jack up one of the rear wheels. Then put it in high gear turn the wheel real slow until it picks up the transmission spline. Just put the engine with my home made overhead in my roadster today.
 
gearloose said:
Are you sure on 11/16? The books I have say 5/8", Les Andrews, vol 1, pg 1-148, the info sheet that came with the rebuild pressure plate, and the gauge to check them from Bratton's, all 5/8".
Click to expand...

Where is this measurement made? From where to where?
 
The clutch measurement for the 6 fingers is from where the throw out bearing contacts the fingers to a straight edge laid across the face of the pressure plate.


11/16" is the Ford spec., and I've also heard or read where some call for 5/8" and 3/4". I'm sure you'll get by with those 2 dimensions, but I like to go by what Ford called for.


See picture in replay 48 in this link.


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213929&highlight=clutch+homemade+tools&page=3
 
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