Engine ID - check my math

[Nathan_1929]

Picked up this pile of parts for super cheap. I think I see some T parts mixed in, so I don't know if these V8 parts ever went together or if this was a pile of leftovers.

Based on my research, this is:
An approx 1941 block because of the "raised" intake area,
A Mercury because of the round center coolant hole.

I believe I can faintly see a "14-T" on the bell housing. I've read that a "014-T" is a 1940 85hp school bus, where the 141-T and 214-T are 90hp from 1941 and 1942. I've also read that pre-WWII engine block numbers don't really mean anything and the true numbers were on the trans, which I don't have.

I have no valve train or connecting rods or distributor. Which rods or valve train would you put in a daily driver? I've read that you can swap rods and I don't really want split valve guides.

When I'm shopping for parts, what "era" am I looking for? I'm thinking the 01A/11A/21A Ford or 09A/19A/29A Mercury with the distributor off the front of the block.

Please, check my math. I'm new to V8s.

 

[GaryU.]

Do a check of the bore size to verify it's a Mercury engine.

 

[cas3]

never seen an oil filler tube like that before

 

[Mart]

I'd go with 8BA style valve assemblies, I believe a full kit is available for not too much money. I'd use a 59A type cam and 2 bolt cover and a crab cap. I'd use 8ba type rods and bearings but you'd need a 8BA crank with the two oil holes per crank throw.

Mart.

 

[Mac VP]

The oil filler tube appears to be a fuel tank filler pipe adapted to the breather stand/fuel pump stand. I’m guessing they were trying to angle the breather forward to clear the firewall. Block is 41 or early 42 with the raised intake feature. Measure the bores as suggested.

 

[26 lakes]

It is a Mercury block. Check for sleeves also. I have two 39-40 style Merc blocks that were sleeved.

 

[rotorwrench]

It's a prewar or wartime 239 truck block. You can see the factory reliefs. The oil filler for trucks were different but I don't know what they looked like in that time frame. The crankshaft has the single oil passages so it's for the floater type bearings.


If the block is good, it would work well with aftermarket aluminum crow foot chamber heads.