Engine Experts, I Need Your Help!

'59Edsel

'59Edsel

Senior Member
Hello everyone,

I've got a 1959 Edsel Ranger with a 292 engine and a Ford two barrel 2100 carburetor. Just last week I had my carburetor rebuilt by a professional who specializes in for 2100 carbs. But my baby still won't run right! I'm young and inexperienced, so can all of you look at the video I shot of me trying to get this engine going and tell me what you think the next step would be in getting this thing purring like a kitten? I'm not sure what to look at next. Maybe some trained ears and eyes can tell me someone mine can't.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZW5RE7ADrc

Thanks everyone!
 
not for sure but might not be getting constant fuel ,after you get it running have you tryed gunning the gas? if it dies out quick id say fuel problem ,i would replace your fuel pump and fuel filter to see if it helps plus you will have a piece of mind that you have replaced those parts.

and is your gas still turning pink from gas tank?if so that might be a problem
 
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54mainlinetim said:
not for sure but might not be getting constant fuel ,after you get it running have you tryed gunning the gas? if it dies out quick id say fuel problem ,i would replace your fuel pump and fuel filter to see if it helps plus you will have a piece of mind that you have replaced those parts.

and is your gas still turning pink from gas tank?if so that might be a problem
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, and no. The gas isn't pink anymore. I had that problem dealt with.
 
I looked at a compilation of Holley carburetors, and it shows in '59 that an Edsel with 292 was supplied with a Holley 2300 2V. Which 2100 do you have? ID is one of three ways: Metal tag with numbers, numbers stamped on side of front foot (forget which side), and the number inside a circle cast into the outside of the float bowl chamber signifying the venturi size. 2100s with a 1.02 or 1.08 venturi would fit your application.

Is there a vacuum leak? Checking for a leak at the base gasket can be done with carb cleaner sprayed at carb base, engine running. If engine picks up speed you found a leak. Has the engine run well with this carb previously? Good tuneup? Is the automatic hot air choke connected properly (if not a vacuum leak can result)? Vacuum line connected to the dist. vacuum advance? Is the dist. vacuum advance working? To check remove hose from carb, suck on end of hose while looking at dist. with cap off. Points should rotate with the vaccuum. While still sucking crimp hose tightly, and points shouldnt move until the hose is uncrimped. Idle needles are set at 1 1/2 turns out initially, and then adjusted.

My speakers are out of order so couldnt listen to the video. Take off the air cleaner and while looking down into carb throat, see if there are two equal streams of gas shooting out when you manually give it throttle (engine off). This lets you know if the accelerator pump is working. Start engine with AC still off and look for overflowing gas out the tops of the overflow tubes. There shouldnt be any. If there is it is a stuck float needle valve, probably from debris (hope you put on a new gas filter). Examine the sides and beneath the carb for signs of gas, again shouldnt be any.

Here is a pic of a 2100 showing the three IDs mentioned. The tag, the circle showing just above the accelerator pump link, and barely seen is the stamped number on foot in front of throttle lever stop.

2100view.jpg
 
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46yblock said:
I looked at a compilation of Holley carburetors, and it shows in '59 that an Edsel with 292 was supplied with a Holley 2300 2V. Which 2100 do you have? ID is one of three ways: Metal tag with numbers, numbers stamped on side of front foot (forget which side), and the number inside a circle cast into the outside of the float bowl chamber signifying the venturi size. 2100s with a 1.02 or 1.08 venturi would fit your application.

Is there a vacuum leak? Checking for a leak at the base gasket can be done with carb cleaner sprayed at carb base, engine running. If engine picks up speed you found a leak. Has the engine run well with this carb previously? Good tuneup? Is the automatic hot air choke connected properly (if not a vacuum leak can result)? Vacuum line connected to the dist. vacuum advance? Is the dist. vacuum advance working? To check remove hose from carb, suck on end of hose while looking at dist. with cap off. Points should rotate with the vaccuum. While still sucking crimp hose tightly, and points shouldnt move until the hose is uncrimped. Idle needles are set at 1 1/2 turns out initially, and then adjusted.

My speakers are out of order so couldnt listen to the video. Take off the air cleaner and while looking down into carb throat, see if there are two equal streams of gas shooting out when you manually give it throttle (engine off). This lets you know if the accelerator pump is working. Start engine with AC still off and look for overflowing gas out the tops of the overflow tubes. There shouldnt be any. If there is it is a stuck float needle valve, probably from debris (hope you put on a new gas filter). Examine the sides and beneath the carb for signs of gas, again shouldnt be any.

Here is a pic of a 2100 showing the three IDs mentioned:

2100view.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow thanks for all the good information. I will go through these steps thoroughly! My carb is a Ford Autolite 5752307.
When I first got the car, it hadn't run in four years. I Cleaned up everything I could and replaced a few components here and there. The carb wasn't rebuilt, and the car ran fine. It would run for hours and hours without a problem. All of a sudden one day, it stopped running correctly. Doing what it's doing now.
 
Your autolite was used on 58-59 Fairlanes, and very well may have come as original equipment on the Edsel. It has the 1.02 venturi which was standard for 292s, though a little undersized. Best of luck.
 
If the car suddenly ran crappy, and rebuilding the carb didn't change anything, me thinks that the problem is elsewhere. JMHO
 
parklane said:
If the car suddenly ran crappy, and rebuilding the carb didn't change anything, me thinks that the problem is elsewhere. JMHO
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x2 what he said ^^^

by watching video sounds like carb is running out of fuel then it dies then bowl fills back up and then you can restart and it runs till the carb runs out again ....a easy way to check the fuel pump is to take fuel line off the carb and have someone turn the motor over and see if it has good flow as the pump works make sure you have the fuel line in a gas can ...
 
set the choke on , and at high idle see if it will stay running , open choke have an assistant try to keep idle just high enough to stay running (if possible) get a spray can of wd 40,ray around base of carb and intake manifold if eng. starts to level out the problem is vacuum leak, check and block all vacuum hoses see if anything changes, check point setting and check timing , put vacuume gauge on manifold , see what vacuum reads, had an old y block jump time once,it ran like crap.
 
If it is what I call a two barrel Ford. The brass tubes can fall out of the secondary venture. Take out the acell . nozzle and it should have two small ones inside two large ones. Bill
 
You can go to the salvage yard and take some off egines, or maybe try parts store ie: NAPA, Parts quest etc. Did you find a unused port that isn't plugged??
 
parklane said:
Did you find a unused port that isn't plugged??
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Well, my choke tube that came out of the manifold has broken off, so I need to get that fixed...and there is another hole on the other side of the manifold that wasn't plugged when I first got it running ,but I might as well...
 
I had a broken choke tube on an older Ford FE series engine. I drilled the manifold and tapped it for 1/8 Pipe threads. I then could thread in a compression adapter to use with a piece of steel line up to the choke thermostatic spring. Check at NAPA, they sell rubber hose caps that can be used to cap off unused vacumn ports. The pack of caps that I bought, had several different sizes included.
 
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