Engine angle

DaWizard

DaWizard

BANNED
Sitting here going over my owners manual, took note of page #13 with the "sectional view of engine showing lubricating system" and since I am planning to drop the front of my A between 2 and 4" depending on what the attitude is at each height, I was wondering if anyone has settled the engine at horizontal and had any oiling problems?

After a close look, it appears that I could possibly starve the #4 piston of the dip in the baffle for the splash oiling.

What say you?
 
Did you just spend the day at Dizzyland? :D

You know if you drop the front of the car 2 or 3 inches, then the lights won't be aimed correctly. :D
 
Dropping the front but not the back of the car will change your castor angle and trail dimension, thus affecting your steering.
Why would you want to change it anyway???:confused::confused:
 
Another Pie in the Sky idea. Why would you want to do this or is it just to create controversy ? Wayne
 
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now your horn will toot down instead of tooting up . that could be a problem >
Plenty have dropped the front a couple of inches on an un pressure fed engine no problem but if 4" then maybe , Its possible but then crank handle will not line up to lift the engine an 1" or so at the front , water outlet would not line up , you should be ok , others may think different , Derek in a hot NZ
 
DaWizard said:
Sitting here going over my owners manual, took note of page #13 with the "sectional view of engine showing lubricating system" and since I am planning to drop the front of my A between 2 and 4" depending on what the attitude is at each height, I was wondering if anyone has settled the engine at horizontal and had any oiling problems?

After a close look, it appears that I could possibly starve the #4 piston of the dip in the baffle for the splash oiling.

What say you?
Click to expand...

So you're saying that any time you descend a long downhill grade you lose oil to #4 cylinder?? Do you have to rebuild the engine at the bottom of every long hill? Model A's can only be driven on level ground?
 
Put 4" blocks under the rear wheels to simulate a 4" drop in the front. Then see what the engine angle is. Simples.
 
DaWizard said:
OH CRAP !! I just realized I may have to change the float level if it is at horizontal !!
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Most people just shave the intake manifold mounting flange on an angle to compensate:rolleyes:.. if you dont want to alter / ruin an original part get a carb spacer and chamfer it....:cool:
 
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See, it appears to me that none of you clowns have even seen the cutaway of the engine or you would understand that I was asking a legitimate question with true concern. So, I guess I will just have to jack up the rear 4 inches and see where the oil sets, or where the bubble on my level sits on the bottom of the pan. It may be that I won't safely be able to drop the nose more than the original thinking 2 inches. Something tells me I should only drop the 2 inches anyway.
 
DaWizard said:
See, it appears to me that none of you clowns have even seen the cutaway of the engine or you would understand that I was asking a legitimate question with true concern. So, I guess I will just have to jack up the rear 4 inches and see where the oil sets, or where the bubble on my level sits on the bottom of the pan. It may be that I won't safely be able to drop the nose more than the original thinking 2 inches. Something tells me I should only drop the 2 inches anyway.
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Apparently Model A engines have not seen their own cutaway either, as they have been happily going up and down steep grades since they were new.
I think real world use outranks a drawing! Just picture an AA truck crawling in and out of a gravel pit all day every day.
 
40 Deluxe said:
Apparently Model A engines have not seen their own cutaway either, as they have been happily going up and down steep grades since they were new.
I think real world use outranks a drawing! Just picture an AA truck crawling in and out of a gravel pit all day every day.
Click to expand...

You do know, I have seen that picture and as soon as it levels out onto the road things go back to normal.

What I am concerned with is having less oil in the pan in the rear continuously, not just for the time it takes to go up a ramp, or a hill or down either either.

I guess I will need to be the guinea pig as it appears no one here has lowered the front and checked, or just tossed a small block into the chassis and stopped depending on splash to lube the pistons and cylinders.

So be it.

You all talk about a momentary change of angle, I am talking about the angle being changed for the life of the engine.
 
DaWizard said:
You do know, I have seen that picture and as soon as it levels out onto the road things go back to normal.

What I am concerned with is having less oil in the pan in the rear continuously, not just for the time it takes to go up a ramp, or a hill or down either either.

I guess I will need to be the guinea pig as it appears no one here has lowered the front and checked, or just tossed a small block into the chassis and stopped depending on splash to lube the pistons and cylinders.

So be it.

You all talk about a momentary change of angle, I am talking about the angle being changed for the life of the engine.
Click to expand...

Or, it could be for the death of the engine.:eek:
 
Don't add my name to the "clowns" here.

On MGE forum about MGB\s, I stated that I think a stock MGB engine will run lean and rich on each carb going up a hill, as the float chambers are fore /aft of the jet and i was scoffed at .

.And this is uphill under load.

Then the old farts talk about having the car absolutely level before you can set the mixture ?? ...

The same occurs on a side float amal carb on a british bike.

A solo bike leans into a corner and gravity keeps the fuel level even between the float chamber and the jet, (unless you hang your arse out like a modern GP rider )., I am talking John Surtees style here..

On a side car, the bike is vertical, so a hard corner will have the float level either high or low depending on which way you are cornering.

I wonder if this is why amal changed to a concentric carb with the float directly below ?

.
So yes , I am with you on a gravity feed oil system, albeir, your situation only occurs on over run down a hill or a radical rake.

I wonder if this is why the V8 ford in 32 had a positive oil pump ?

Why did they change when the model A was so perfect ? laughs.
 
DaWizard said:
See, it appears to me that none of you clowns have even seen the cutaway of the engine or you would understand that I was asking a legitimate question with true concern. So, I guess I will just have to jack up the rear 4 inches and see where the oil sets, or where the bubble on my level sits on the bottom of the pan. It may be that I won't safely be able to drop the nose more than the original thinking 2 inches. Something tells me I should only drop the 2 inches anyway.
Click to expand...
The angle of the engine has nothing to do with the oil level. As Tom said, the oil level changes all the time whether it is low or going up or down hills. The angle of the engine is for the driveline and u-joint. All cars are set up with an angle in the driveline, I have modified modern drivelines and the rear is mounted with a 3-6 degree angle to the transmission. You are worrying for nothing. Besides, just dropping the front end, won't affect the angle if you don't cut the frame since that is where the angle is set along with the timing cover and flywheel housing mounts.
 
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