Emergency brake issues

HalcyonDays

HalcyonDays

Senior Member
Re installing emergency brakes on new to me car. P.O. removed the emergency brakes from a car I just purchased. Most of the removed emergency brake parts were included in the sale. Replacing the missing parts and reinstalling the emergency brakes causes the wheels, which turn freely without the brakes, to lock up when the hubs are installed. Am I missing something? Looks like new linings were installed on the emergency brake bands. Any thoughts would be great.
 
I had the same situation. i bought a car with the hand brakes in a bag. One pf the backing plates was bent where the hand brake hits the tab. After a new plate and reinstall, the hubs just locked up. I ended up grinding the linings a bit, particularly the ends where the last rivet makes the lining rise up a bit. Eventually I got it all working. Definitely a cheeseball setup.
 
Same thing happened to me when I put new linings on. They are too thick. Look for that. It may be your problem.
 
Going through this same process. Emergency brake components were removed by previous owner. In my case the removed parts were not included in my purchase. The emergency brake handle and linkage exists but does not move freely. Trying to free the cross shaft up.
 
I do think the linings are too thick and will try reducing them. Hoping that will solve problem. Thanks for the replies.
 
There are a couple of things to look at.

#1 All linkage cotter pins need to be on the inside. Not facing out!

#2 Look at the E bands. They might be installed incorrectly. They have an inner and outer facing. Bands need to seat flat on carrier. If put on inside out, they will be on an angle / pitch. Make sure to use good springs to latch them down to carrier and use the outer triangular tab to hook the springs to.
 
Hello Mel,


I'm interested too because I just make this. You wrote
They have an inner and outer facing. Bands need to seat flat on carrier. If put on inside out, they will be on an angle / pitch. ...
Click to expand...
That is not understood. What do you mean to do, please?
 
Last year I bought all new rear brakes including complete backing plates, linings, drums and wheel bearings. Had a ***** of a time getting the drums on and ended up removing the new emergency brake lining assemblies and using the old ones. It appears the new linings/shoes assemblies are too thick.
 
Seems like a common thread. Last year I did a complete brake re-do, including my own riveting of the brake linings and the e-brake bands. New cast iron drums. Could not for the life of me get the rear drums on. If I took the e brake band off, it fit just fine. In order to have the e-brake, I used my handy-dandy multi tool and sanded and sanded a bunch of material off the e-brake pads. Especially on the ends where there is a tendency for it to curl up a bit. It doesn't take much of a curl either, and if there is a little variance in the drilling of the holes in the lining to the band, they will pucker a bit there too. At any rate, with enough sanding and cussing, finally got it. Fortunately, I use it only as a parking brake, so the lining will probably outlast me.
 
Do any of the vendors offer the right thickness liner? I am thinking about the process of sanding them down, and am concerned about maintaining consistency around the whole loop.


I did notice the difference between the two sides of the band and understand the need to have the band installed correctly. I am not sure I understand the direction of the cotter pins, most photos show the pins facing out.



Thanks again for the replies.
 
When I did the brakes on my 30 coupe several years ago l could not get hub on with th e brake shoes on. I remembered the 1940,s cars I drove as a teenager the e brake used the service brake shoes by a cable going to rear brakes. What I did was taking the e brake shoes out then welded a bell crank to the service brake shaft, then attached a cable from the e brake lever to the bell crank. When you pull on the e brake lever you are setting the serviice brake shoes. The only down size is the brake wIll be on. I had battery disconnect switch which I turned off if I was going to leave the e brake on for any length of time. Worked great.
 
HalcyonDays said:
………….... I am not sure I understand the direction of the cotter pins, most photos show the pins facing out.
Thanks again for the replies.
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see the attached pdf from the Bratton's catalog, note the position of the cotter pin, PC #17 on the Pin Emergency Brake Toggle Lever PC# 19. The cotter pins need to be inboard so they do not rub against the brake drum.
 

Attachments

Are you using original steel drums or new cast iron. Many times the emergency portion isn’t machined when the service area is.
 
I sell a lot of cast iron brake drums and do a lot of brake work. I always machine the service brake area of the drum and have never machined the emergency brake area of a drum. I sell emergency brake bands that I have had new woven lining put on (bonded - not riveted) and have never had a problem with them being too thick. I have had customer contact me saying the they could not get the drums on over the bands, but in every case the problem was they had the band on inside out. As mentioned in my prior posting, there is an inner and outer facing to an emergency band.
 
HalcyonDays said:
Do any of the vendors offer the right thickness liner? I am thinking about the process of sanding them down, and am concerned about maintaining consistency around the whole loop.


I did notice the difference between the two sides of the band and understand the need to have the band installed correctly. I am not sure I understand the direction of the cotter pins, most photos show the pins facing out.



Thanks again for the replies.
Click to expand...
The cotter pins, especially the one connecting to you actuating linkage need to be on the inside of the arm, you will note the head of that pin is very small so it clears the drum. If the pin is put in with the cotter pun on the outside, it will rub the drum, and you will hear a click click click when rotating the drum as the head of the pin hits the back of the studs
 
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