Electronic pain!!! Ignition !!!

BUBBAS IGNITION

BUBBAS IGNITION

Well-known member
Best description i can come up with is "pain". Customer brings two Mallory uni-lites in the shop in a box for testing . Both test showing a defective module one was dead with no action and the other one was "hurt". Hurt is what i call it right before the electronic modules just gives up!! It will skip a cylinder under load every so often causing a terrible , hard to find miss fire....
In this case we replaced both modules but really need to know the cause.
Often ( and in this case) a low resistance coil was mistakenly used with a value of less than 1 ohm!
The replacement modules have a warning note in the box to always use a 1 ohm plus a 1.5 ballast resitor with these modules.
Most electronic units have a current limit that is built in the module as a protection measure , however it cant run for long periods of time in this protection mode as it will hurt its self with the heat coming from the higher current heat build up.
Take a good look at the coil resistance and the instructions with the modules. And always check what coil resistance is .
 

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It seems as though so many problems with the electronic units come from too much voltage to the module or improper resistor or lack of?
 
Seth Swoboda said:
It seems as though so many problems with the electronic units come from too much voltage to the module or improper resistor or lack of?
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Seth,


I would say ALL electronics problems come from too much current caused by low resistance. Low ressitance is caused by mismatched parts etc.
Even the manufactures hot lines often suggest the wrong parts.
The coil problem is getting worse every day with the latest MSD buying up the smaller companies and mixing the parts etc.
 
Evidently a stock points and condenser ignition[properly set up by Bubba] keeps looking better everyday. [Unsolicited testimonial from a satisfied customer]
 
I installed my Bubba's rebuilt helmet on my '41 last night. My wife came out to the garage, listened for a minute, and just said "Wow!".

I'm a happy customer too and am confident I won't have ignition problems at the Motor Muster next week.
 
How many times have we grabbed a coil and installed it because "a coil is a coil is a coil" and damaged stuff by our lack of knowledge. I killed an expensive L88 corvette transistorized ignition box by plugging "just a coil" into it. Couldn't figure out why car had no spark, transistorized ignition was brand new.....oops. Didn't learn the lesson since I didn't know what class I was attending.
 
It was reading all the horror stories that convinced me to stay stock and ship Lincoln distributor setup to Bubba for some TLC. (That and I wasn't seeing a replacement that didn't look like a pile of kludge.)
 
I agree with all the comments made and also agree that the original Ford ignition is a great system, but keep in mind it will also be damaged if the incorrect voltage is applied to it! You have to have the correct component combo regardless of the system.
 
A transistor is an electronic component installed in a circuit where its primary function is to protect a fuse....
 
its more the current than voltage.but one nice thing bout points it u can mc iver it home.canged a lot of points in my day .clearly modern electronic ign is far better,but theres something about adjusting points that makes u feel like u have some control.
 
Bubba, I'm suspecting a bad electronic ignition issue with my 48 59A 6V system too. Once I get around 2300rpm I start dropping cylinders. If I said Bubba, I want a crab style distributor that will work in my car, ready to run how much would that set up be? I currently have a Petronix coil, but I also have an oem coil too if it needs switched out. I'm weighing out my options to try to get through the summer. Thanks
 
Chappy said:
Bubba, I'm suspecting a bad electronic ignition issue with my 48 59A 6V system too. Once I get around 2300rpm I start dropping cylinders. If I said Bubba, I want a crab style distributor that will work in my car, ready to run how much would that set up be? I currently have a Petronix coil, but I also have an oem coil too if it needs switched out. I'm weighing out my options to try to get through the summer. Thanks
Click to expand...

Crab with points, cap and rotor is $250 electronic with cap, rotor,electronic module and correct ignition coil is $350......shipping is $18 ,
point crab with no cap and rotor is $200........

care should be taken with pertronix coil as far as working ressitance always check resistance should be 1.5 ohms , no lower ????
 
Im still amazed that people take time and check specs for the mechanical and just take first they get for ignition and stick it in.
Electronic ignitions work but they just hate interference, so did the radios back in the old days.
They knew how to use a capacitor back then...knowledge must have been lost during the years.
A $2 cap at the generator is a real good investment for supressing interference.
 
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